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 DIY spark plug change RS6 C5 View next topic
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Shoppinit
Skilled


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 1101


PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:39 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Right, as requested... Not saying this is the best way, just my way

You will need:

1. Large flat blade screw driver
2. 10mm socket with extension
3. 16mm plug socket with plug gripper
4. 180mm at least socket Extension (it's a long way down there)
5. Torque wrench

Steps:

1. Remove front carbon fiber cover in the usual way.
2. Loosen jubilee clips on the intake funnel boots. Completely loosen all 4 clips.
3. Remove the front intake scoops. There are 2 self-tappers that hold each on on the front valence. Remove these screws.

They are a pain to get out because there are coolant pipes that stop you pushing them back and out. You can compress the coolant pipes slightly and slide them out laterally. I foundthis to be the easiest way. So you slide the left one left, and the right one right and out.

At the same time, you need to detach the boot / hose from the air box.

Once you've done that you should have this:



4. Remove the nut from the air cleaner box retaining bolt (left side). You'll have to access it from underneath. Easiest to do this with the 10mm socket if your wrench is small enough.



5. Then remove the bolt on the air box fixing bracket (right side):


6. Remove the Allen bolt from the center front of the airbox and don't drop it in the engine bay (like I did).

7. Now prise up the BACK of the air box by gently lifting it with your fingers. You're trying to slide the MAF tubes out of the inlet manifold recepticles. It's quite a tight fit, so try to lift the air box UP without twisting it forwards. It'll come up about 2 inches then you'll feel it pull free of the inlet manifold. DON'T PULL IT ANY FURTHER!!

8. The air box is still connected to the car via the electrical connectors on each MAF. These are right at the back of the airbox (bulkhead side) You need to disconnect them BOTH before completely removing the airbox.

Here is the left-side connector (the one on the right is the same, but slightly hidden by other cables in front of it. If you are the kind of person that gets annoyed easily then gather your reserves of patience for the right side.
(These connectors have a little tab that you need to lift before they release. I use a large flat blade screw driver that I twist, then I pull the connectors off. See below where I disconnect the coil packs for a photo. )


9. Now you can remove the whole airbox and put it to one side. Be careful with it, it would be a shame to scratch the carbon fiber or break a MAF. Don't put it anywhere dirty either because those MAFs are going to go straight back into the manifold and you don't want to drop any gunk in there. In this photo I've highlighted the DVs for those that are interested.


Here is the underside of the airbox showing the MAFs:


10. Use clean cloth (lint-free) or sponge or something to cover the inlet manifold openings to stop anything falling in there. You know that sods law means that if you don't, something will fall in there.

11. Now the coil packs are exposed. Yay! Should all be plain sailing now, right? Yeah, right.
Starting on the left bank, disconnect the electrical connectors on each coil pack. Use a flat blade screwdriver twisted in the slit to release the retaining tab and slide the connector off. Plop. Simple!



Now loosen the 2 bolts on each coil pack with your 10mm socket.

12. Just as you were thinking that this is going to be easy from now on, the coil pack proves impossible to remove because of all the bits in front of it. Remove the cylinder and tube from in front of the coil pack and lay it on top (on a bit of rag since this is a crankcase breather and may drip oil onto your engine).



13. Remove the first coil pack. Mine stank, don't know why. Put it to one side. The plug is exposed.


14. Remove the plug in the usual fashion. Mine looked like this:


The tip looks good, but what's all that brown crap on the thread? Also, my plugs were barely more than finger tight. I think Audi forgot to torque them up last time

15. Replace the plug with a new one. Torque it up to 30Nm (thanks, grizz).
Replace the coil pack and tighten it to the head. Plug the connector back in. This one is done.

16. Coil pack 2 is difficult to remove because of the stainless steel pipework in front of it.


It's easy enough to move them by removing the Allen bolts and pushing them out of the way.


17. The others are easy to remove and replace.

18. In true Haynes fashion "refitting is reverse of removal".

Just make sure that the MAFs are bedded properly in their holes.

Take the car out for a run, then test for misfiring with the vagcom if you've got one.

Peasy easy. Any comments welcome.
That's it
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bluebrakes
Veteran



Joined: 26 Sep 2008
Posts: 6872


PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:44 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

nice clear pics to go with a good tutorial.
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MarkB
AudiSRS Retired



Joined: 18 Apr 2008
Posts: 8378

Location: Retired

PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:45 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Now Sticky
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Shoppinit
Skilled


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 1101


PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:47 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Thanks The main thing is not to be afraid of the beast...
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Cornishmoocher
Expert


Car: 'nt be arsed....
Power: & Glory
Torque: 's cheap

Joined: 21 Apr 2008
Posts: 4134

Location: Generally in the shit...

PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:56 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Thanks,

A really valuable addition to the RS6 forum and SRS in general, nice to see you here.

Mooch

_________________
You know that feeling, like when you've shagged someone you shouldn't have.........?

I need "RS fir my Bargehole"
Ok.... so a 3.0l TDI A5  will have do do for now..... (it is DD red tho!)
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Shoppinit
Skilled


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 1101


PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:01 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Cheers, Mooch!
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RichRS6
knowledgeable


Car: RS6 Avant
Torque: o the devl

Joined: 03 Dec 2008
Posts: 688

Location: Penzance

PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:46 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Excellent write up, I'm going to be doing this soon as I just don't trust Audi to do it plus its nice to get hands on as I don't get much use out of the tool kit these days, seem to spend more time cleaning it.......

Anyone have any opinions on which plugs are the best and or worst ?

Also, which are OEM ones.

Cheers, Rich.

_________________
03 Mugello Blue Avant, H&Rs, Hotchkis ARBs, Res Miltek, APR R1s, ITG Filters, Silver Leather, Carbon Fibre, Alcantara H/lining, MFSW, RNS-E, OEM Bluetooth, Digital Freeview, Headrest Monitors , Aero Wipers, Rear Aero Wiper, R/H parking Mod, Rear Fog Mod.
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Shoppinit
Skilled


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 1101


PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:11 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

OEM are NGK PFR7Q. I wouldn't use anything else.
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RS65007
Brand New, Welcome :)


Car: RS6 C5
Power: 541 HBP
Torque: 886 Nm
Engine code: BCY

Joined: 19 Sep 2012
Posts: 14

Location: Spain

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 6:02 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

I pulled this write up with the help of a search machine November last year and I used it to do the spark plugs and the N75 on mine. At that time I was not yet a member. Now certainly the time (better too late than never) to say it is an excellent write up and thank you for that    

Cheers
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Shoppinit
Skilled


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 1101


PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 6:03 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Glad to be of help.
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northern monkey
Knows a Bit


Car: AUDI S6 AVANT (c5)
Power: 370
Torque: 450

Joined: 06 Oct 2012
Posts: 113


PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 11:59 am Reply with quoteBack to top

is this the same for the S6, i suspect it may be a little simpler..

mark

_________________
Newbie...starting to mod the car a little...
So far.
Refurbed wheels, grills and badges gone stealth.
RNS-D fitted
RS6 ARB's
CD changer
RS6 front brakes
Stainless brake lines.
Still to fit:-
Big brake kit at rear !
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Shoppinit
Skilled


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 1101


PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 8:36 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

S6 is much easier. No messing around with the airbox.
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Shoppinit
Skilled


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 1101


PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2015 1:00 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Because F@#king ImageShack.us sold out, here's the guide again with the photos (Mods, please feel free to change the original post, I couldn't):

Before installing, make sure you have genuine NGK plugs and not counterfeit:

http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/fake/index.html

Right, as requested... Not saying this is the best way, just my way

You will need:

1. Large flat blade screw driver
2. 10mm socket with extension
3. 16mm plug socket with plug gripper
4. 180mm at least socket Extension (it's a long way down there)
5. Torque wrench

Steps:

1. Remove front carbon fiber cover in the usual way.
2. Loosen jubilee clips on the intake funnel boots. Completely loosen all 4 clips.
3. Remove the front intake scoops. There are 2 self-tappers that hold each on on the front valence. Remove these screws.

They are a pain to get out because there are coolant pipes that stop you pushing them back and out. YOu can compress the cooland pipes slightly and slide them out laterally. I foundthis to be the easiest way. So you slide the left one left, and the right one right and out.

At the same time, you need to detach the boot / hose from the air box.

Once you've done that you should have this:




4. Remove the nut from the air cleaner box retaining bolt (left side). You'll have to access it from underneath. Easiest to do this with the 10mm socket if your wrench is small enough.



5. Then remove the bolt on the air box fixing bracket (right side):



6. Remove the Allen bolt from the center front of the airbox and don't drop it in the engine bay (like I did).

7. Now prise up the BACK of the air box by gently lifting it with your fingers. You're trying to slide the MAF tubes out of the inlet manifold receptacles. It's quite a tight fit, so try to lift the air box UP without twisting it forwards. It'll come up about 2 inches then you'll feel it pull free of the inlet manifold. DON'T PULL IT ANY FURTHER!!

8. The air box is still connected to the car via the electrical connectors on each MAF. These are right at the back of the airbox (bulkhead side) You need to disconnect them BOTH before completely removing the airbox.

Here is the left-side connector (the one on the right is the same, but slightly hidden by other cables in front of it. If you are the kind of person that gets annoyed easily then gather your reserves of patience for the right side.
(These connectors have a little tab that you need to lift before they release. I use a large flat blade screw driver that I twist, then I pull the connectors off. See below where I disconnect the coil packs for a photo. )



9. Now you can remove the whole airbox and put it to one side. Be careful with it, it would be a shame to scratch the carbon fiber or break a MAF. Don't put it anywhere dirty either because those MAFs are going to go straight back into the manifold and you don't want to drop any gunk in there. In this photo I've highlighted the DVs for those that are interested.



Here is the underside of the airbox showing the MAFs:



10. Use clean cloth (lint-free) or sponge or something to cover the inlet manifold openings to stop anything falling in there. You know that sods law means that if you don't, something will fall in there.

11. Now the coil packs are exposed. Yay! Should all be plain sailing now, right? Yeah, right.
Starting on the left bank, disconnect the electrical connectors on each coil pack. Use a flat blade screwdriver twisted in the slit to release the retaining tab and slide the connector off. Plop. Simple



Now loosen the 2 bolts on each coil pack with your 10mm socket.

12. Just as you were thinking that this is going to be easy from now on, the coil pack proves impossible to remove because of all the bits in front of it. Remove the cylinder and tube from in front of the coil pack and lay it on top (on a bit of rag since this is a crankcase breather and may drip oil onto your engine).




13. Remove the first coil pack. Mine stank, don't know why. Put it to one side. The plug is exposed.



14. Remove the plug in the usual fashion. Mine looked like this:



The tip looks good, but what's all that brown crap on the thread? Also, my plugs were barely more than finger tight. I think Audi forgot to torque them up last time  

15. Replace the plug with a new one. Torque it up to 30Nm (thanks, grizz).
Replace the coil pack and tighten it to the head. Plug the connector back in. This one is done.

16. Coil pack 2 is difficult to remove because of the stainless steel pipework in front of it.


It's easy enough to move them by removing the Allen bolts and pushing them out of the way.


17. The others are easy to remove and replace.

18. In true Haynes fashion "refitting is reverse of removal".

Just make sure that the MAFs are bedded properly in their holes.

Take the car out for a run, then test for misfiring with the vagcom if you've got one.

Peasy easy.  Any comments welcome. :thumbs:
That's it
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