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MikeCS4

Another DIY engine pull / K04 upgrade

I've finally managed to gather virtually everything i need for my K04 upgrade after developing a nice smoke screen from the exhaust as the car hits boost
So yesterday i decided it was time to start the prep work ready for the pull in the next couple of days

Yesterdays progress saw the car up on ramps / axle stands minus it front bumper & headlights



Today saw the coolant drained, the AC rad moved, coolant reservoir off, IC's off, airbox out, y-pipe & maf out, viscous fan off. ( i will post a pic in the morning as i forgot to take one before i packed up)
Then i ran into my 1st snag as i went to remove the front end where to disconnect the oil cooling lines connected to the rad, I have checked the video link - [url] http://vimeo.com/5238276[/url]
posted previously but it doesn't mention the oil lines in question.
can anybody advise me the best place to disconnect them

Leaving the carrier out but still attached i decided to move on and hit snag number 2 - undoing the downpipe to exhaust sleeves where i found the nuts completely rusted and different sizes and i cant get any sockets over them
(again pics to follow tomorrow)

Any help and advice appreciated
audimad100

good work mate keep us posted, want to have a read through this it might help. some useful information in this link.

http://www.ibiblio.org_tkan_audi_2.7biturbo-selfstudy.pdf/
http://www.audidiy.com/b5s4.html
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng98.shtml
http://vimeo.com/5238276

hope this little lot helps, may also pay to have a look over AdamS4's posts as he did his a while back. he had some really good pics and information up on here
MikeCS4

Cheers will have a look thru,

I've have been looking at Adams post as well, but couldn't work out where he'd disconnected the oil lines to the rad from
AdamS4

Nice work

I'll post a picture of where they are tomorrow.

If your standing in front of your car, bottom left rear of the radiator is where the gearbox oil cooler lines should connect to. They run along the o/s of the engine.
MikeCS4

Cheers Adam, I assume that means draining the oil out as well
Aragorn

When i did the exhaust on the 1.8T the sleeve clamps were goobered like you say, and i ended up just sticking the grinder thru the straps that clamp them on.

If you wanted to reuse them you could probably just grind off the nut/bolt instead, but i had a replacement so didnt need to be that careful!
MikeCS4

Here are the pics as of end of play yesterday



And the rusty exhaust sleeves which i'll prob take a grinder to and try to cut the bolts off






Right time for day 3 to commence
cantbassed

good luck!!!
Laaf

Take a long braker bar for the bolts if they doesn't go up. Just tighten them until they snap.
MikeCS4

Laaf wrote:
Take a long braker bar for the bolts if they doesn't go up. Just tighten them until they snap.


Easier said then done as i couldnt get a socket on any of them even after resorting to hammering one on ....

well today has seen slow progress but the downpipes are now seperated from the main part of the exhaust after i used an air cutter to cut the nuts off followed by a wack with a hammer and chisel to finish the job



It would appear that the passenger side turbo was causing the oil screen as a small puddle of oil & water came out of the passenger side downpipe as i disconnected it

andream88

lol are you using a polaroid Mike?
MikeCS4

The gearbox oil cooling lines were then disconnected and the front removed



i then attempted to remove the drive shaft heat shields which brings me to my next question, as i am planning on pulling the engine on it's own and leaving the gearbox in situ, do i actually need to remove the heat shields as i'll be dammed if i can get to the top bolt undone

and can i leave the EGT & lambda's in place until the engine & down pipes are out

Thanks in advance

Mike
andream88

1st) you can remove the top bolts of the driveshaft heatshields with a long (and i mean LONG) extension from the wheel well. Removing the engine+trans as a whole is much easier than splitting them in half.

2nd) you can keep the egt's and lambdas in place as long as you disconnect them from the firewall.
MikeCS4

andream88 wrote:
lol are you using a polaroid Mike?


lol no i got too close with the flash turned on while laying under the car with my iphone camera
Laaf

andream88 wrote:
1st) you can remove the top bolts of the driveshaft heatshields with a long (and i mean LONG) extension from the wheel well. Removing the engine+trans as a whole is much easier than splitting them in half.

2nd) you can keep the egt's and lambdas in place as long as you disconnect them from the firewall.


The EGTs are connected on the backside of the intake manifold, no need to unplug.
MikeCS4

well just a quick update as i've not been able to do much more at the moment due to work but hopefully work will recommence on thursday if the weather allows, although i have got the use of a pop up gazeebo to work under if required.

having read the various comments i have also decided to pull the enginge & geabox as a complete unit now as well

so more pics & updates to follow when work resumes
will1981

Did the DP blanks arrive ok Mike?
MikeCS4

will1981 wrote:
Did the DP blanks arrive ok Mike?


I ment to pm you earlier Will, they arrived today thanks  
will1981

Top stuff, fingers crossed for the weather  
MikeCS4

right, after a 12hr night shift and an hours sleep i decided to do a bit more today while the weather is still on my side

the 1st task of the day was to tackle the drive shaft heat shields again with a 6mm allen socket and 2 1/4" extension bars which finally did the trick and they are both now off, then as i have decided to take the engine & gearbox out together i removed the prop shaft heat shield and loosened off the prop shaft bolts, I had a bit of a game when i went to turn the prop shaft as the drivers side rear caliper decided to stick when i let the handbrake off



Just need to seperate the prop from the centre diff

Then it was back into the engine bay and removed the wiring loom from the ECU and disconnect the reverse light switch from the gearbox



At this point I had to call it a day after 2 1/2 hours as it was time for the school run.

Tomorrows jobs as it stands at the moment

undo the drive shafts, undo the clutch slave cylinder, disconnect the fuel lines, disconnect the hoses from the bulkhead, remove the AC pump

Plus a few other bits that i'm sure to remember as I go, any any other obvious bits that ive missed that you guys remind me of
MikeCS4

Well what a frustrating day today turned out to be, so near yet so far ..........

1st job of the day was to drain the oil then remove the oil filter and oil cooler, then off came the aux belt closely followed by the AC pump which was lowered and swung back out of the way.

Then the gear linkage was marked up and disconnected along with the vac hoses and fuel lines.

Then after many attempts to get the clutch slave cylinder unbolted the decision was taken to clamp the hose and pop out the pipe

Then with a bit of gentle persuasion the drive shafts were popped and the engine & gearbox mounts were marked up and removed

A final check that everything was ready the hoist was moved into place



then it all went down hill as the engine was lifted and slowly moved forward while lifting the gearbox out of its mounts

It was at this point the gearbox mount got stuck on the drive shafts and no matter how much juggling there was no way of getting them free.So at this point with fading light the engine & gearbox was relocated back into its mounts and game over for another day

next plan of attack is to jack up the front of the car and remove the ramps and drop it onto axle stands an hope that allows enough movement to swing the drive shafts out of the way
MikeCS4

MikeCS4 wrote:
next plan of attack is to jack up the front of the car and remove the ramps and drop it onto axle stands an hope that allows enough movement to swing the drive shafts out of the way


Unless anybody can offer an alternative solution that doesnt involve me having to jack the car up off the ramps

TIA for any advice  
5potmad

^^^^^^^^^^^^

well done for doing it on your drive.

I was moaning when doing just discs and pads in the pissing rain.
MikeCS4

well it's certainly been an education but i've taken the slow and steady approach, although now i just want to get it all sorted and back on the road again now
MikeCS4

finally a productive day and the engine is now out after a bit of a game I decided to undo the DP's and drop them out under the car before slowly pulling the engine forward and lifting the drive shafts over the gearbox mounts



Once out & on the deck a brief check of the exhaust side of the turbos showed the following

Near side


Off side
MarkB

I've moved the topic to projects and builds... not sure how I missed that it wasn't in there already.

Well done so far  
s4marsh

getting there now mate, Its good to see more and more people doing their own builds and sharing their experience.
MikeCS4

Well it's been a slow week without much progress due to work & half term but the engine is now on the dining table ready to be worked on, I did all the gearbox bolts  and the oil feed pipes just need to wiggle the box off now ready to fit the RS4 pressure plate i've got then it's time to swap over the turbos & lower intake pipes.

once this is done I was considering bolting the Y-pipe & intercoolers on & do a pressure test before the engine goes back in as i suspect a possible boost leak on the back of the block, does anybody know if it's possible to do this or not ???
mikey-s

You won't get good results with a cold engine, but if there's an obvious leak then you will find it.
5potmad

"but the engine is now on the dining table"


bet the wife is well impressed.
pjbRs

I don't think our table would take the weight?
philws4

Just turn up the central heating or leave the oven door open and the engine will soon have some heat in it
MikeCS4

i'll post pic's tomorrow, basically when we changed our dining table at the beginning of the year i kept hold of the top which is currently sat across the legs of the engine hoist out in the garage with the engine and gearbox sat on it.
MikeCS4

A quick update the engine & gearbox are now separated ready for a longer stint tomorrow and pic of the engine on the dining table ........

MikeCS4

Right another quick update

Both turbos have now been fitted although the hose to the passengers side wastegate has split as i did the jubilee clip up on it so now got to sort that out as well as prime the turbos with oil,
Also fitted an RS4 clutch,
just need to mod the upper intake pipes now & fit a new after run pump, then refit the Y-pip & ic's and pressure test
MikeCS4

And so it continues not much progress due to work & the weather but the upper pipes have now been modded and fitted along with the Y pipe

the split hose to the nearside wastegate that split is waiting to be replaced as there's not enough slack in it to pull it and slip it on so an new replacement was ordered and collected yesterday

as with Adam i just need a couple of good dry days although it'll be at least another week as i'm stuck in work this weekend and on nights again for the latter half of the week
MikeCS4

Finally after a frustrating day last week and working a productive day.

The wastegate vac lines are finally sorted and both turbos primed, the after run pump has been replaced, both upper intake pipes have been fitted, the new release bearing was fitted to the gearbox as well after i'd cleaned out the bell housing,
next on the agenda try and get the gearbox & engine bolted back together and possibly a pressure test with the engine out as i suspect a leek on a hose at the back of the block
MarkB

Well done for keeping at it. I've not done anything on mine since the weather has turned cold

Have you listed what the full spec when finished will be?
tdiquattro

Well played Mike, keep at it mate
MikeCS4

Base spec will be K04's RS4 IC's, RS4 clutch, RS4 DP's with gutted precats & 3" single Miltek

Then RS4 fuel pump & injectors when i get a health check & the map tweaked
I was hoping to get up to the rr day but it looks like i'm working that weekend

Cheers Nige
MarkB

Nice simple spec. Pretty much the spec I was going to do before getting carried away!

Should go very well
tdiquattro

That's the way to go, solid reliable 420 bhp, gonna be great mate, and down to your hard work.  Shame you can't make the RR, but I'm sure there will be another meet soon enough.
MikeCS4

I did get a couple of predicted figures while talking to a couple of people and will definitely be happy with that

Although I need to get it all back together first
MikeCS4

well I've managed to get the engine & gearbox reunited



just need to reconnect the oil cooler lines and hopefully have the engine back in tomorrow
DavidT

Great thread, almost there now
AdamS4

Nice one Mike, coming back together nicely.

Did you have trouble getting the engine and box back together ?
MikeCS4

AdamS4 wrote:
Nice one Mike, coming back together nicely.

Did you have trouble getting the engine and box back together ?


Adam, I did have a bit of a game with them but then it just dropped back into place, the only problem i had was putting the bolts back as the tray i had them in got knocked over and i've got one bolt that seems marginally too long and need to check out where it's supposed to go when i head back out to the garage shortly
MikeCS4

managed a few more hours out in the cold earlier and the gearbox is all torqued up after sorting out the mix up with the bolts and the oil lines have been reconnected.
I then fitted the Y-pipe & RS4 IC's and did a quick pressure test which revealed a couple of leaks on the intake pipes which have now been resolved, and yes i know it was done cold but there appeared to be quite a lot of air coming back thru the filler cap / PCV breather so will need to get a 2nd opinion on it once it's all back together



Fingers crossed the snow stays away tonight as I'm hoping to get the engine back in tomorrow although if it does it makes it all the more fun
MikeCS4

It's back in ............... !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

after getting wrapped up ready for the cold I set about putting the engine back in, having slid it part way in I fed the gearbox selector rods back into their rubber housing then pushed it a bit further and lifted the drive shafts over the gearbox mounts then reattached to clutch pipe to the slave cylinder and slid the engine home, then as i tried to fit my RS4 dp's i had to slide the engine partially back out in order to get them in and reconnected to the turbos and then put the engine back. having done this I then discovered that the PCV hose that connects to the Y-pipe had somehow got broken so will be ordering the breather hose assembly on Monday.



shortly after this I decided to call it a day due to being on nights tonight, so weather pending the next set of jobs is to bolt up the engine & gearbox mounts, reconnect the drive & prop shafts then start refitting all the ancillaries plus my RS4 IC's and full Milltec exhaust.
then check and refill all fluids
AdamS4

Nice one Mike.... So close... it stats to get excititing now
MikeCS4

Cheers Adam, unfortunately it may still be a couple of weeks before it's back on the road as i need to sort out fitting the IC's and the milltek as well as get the replacement pcv breather and after run sensor clip along with a set of IC mounting brackets
ScottR

Mike... What happened?? Tell me there was a happy ending to this story.

I'm planning to start my 'project' on Saturday, and think your timescales seem much more in line with what I would expect mine to be!!
MikeCS4

Unfortunately due to the snow etc before xmas and the weather in general, plus doing something to my back and the combination of shift work I've not managed to get any further.

I've got to bolt up the engine, gearbox, downpipes & driveshafts
Fit the Miltek
then fit my RS4 ic's although i'm trying to decide wether or not to use RS4 ic brackets

Then reconnect all the wiring put the front end back on and refill all the fluids plus anything else i may have missed

then fingers crossed it'll all fire up
s4balljoint

ANY MORE NEWS ON THIS SAME SPEC IM GONNA DO IN NEAR FUTURE GETTING PARTS TOGETHER NOW
ScottR

Just comparing the pics of Mike's lovely black pulleys to my 'orrible rust coloured ones.  Perhaps a little bit of tarting up for mine when I finally get it all out.
bluebrakes

MikeCS4 wrote:





All in good time Mike. I know how it feels to get a project delayed because of the weather.

Anyway, I'm intrigued by your Suzuki DR350(?), got any pics?
MikeCS4

Weather permitting I'm hoping to recommence battle tomorrow and start getting the engine, gearbox & driveshafts bolted back up

bluebrakes it's actually a DRZ400 that I supermoto converted a few years back with quite a few trick bits. and I may have a couple of pics about somewhere

Scott, Which pulleys are you talking about ??? as I replaced the water pump about 3 years ago as well as a full cambelt & tensioner change
ScottR

It was your rust free belt pulleys I am envious of

I've also got use of an engine crane, and rather annoyingly, will have the use of 2-post ramp... unfortunately it's not being installed until the day after I pull my engine.  Typical!

Good luck with putting the engine back in place.  You'll be the first I turn to if mine goes back in.
MikeCS4

Scott,

I just realised and edited the bit about the hoist before you replied, anyhow good luck mate. I'm also trying to decide wether or not to use IC brackets when it comes to hooking up the RS4 IC's i've got going on as they seem to be bloody hard to get hold of
MikeCS4

Well the weather held out and i managed to spend a couple of hours on the beast today,

The engine and gearbox mounts are now bolted back up as is the propshaft and drivers side drive shaft, unfortunately as I went to bolt up the passenger side one the rubber gasket fell out with a split in it, so time to source a replacement
Then the downpipe to turbo bolts were done up and the old exhaust removed and the new Miltek back box fitted ready for the rest of the system to be fitted

work looms for the rest of the week now so it'll probably be next week before i get back to it  
MikeCS4

Just a quick up date as i managed to get a bit more done after finally getting round to replacing the cork gasket / washer that sits between the drive shaft and the gearbox and torquing up the prop & drive shaft bolts & fitting the prop shaft heat shield then started fitting the rest of the exhaust before it started raining

unfortunately it's back to work for the next 4 nights so it'll be back end of next week before i see the under side of it again
MikeCS4

With a bright sunny sky, it was a pleasure to tackle the beast again today with some assistance from a mate.
We jacked the back up some more to gain some more clearance underneath in order to finish fitting my Milltek, after a couple of issues we finally got it sorted, (Grizz many thanks for the advice)
Then we moved up the the front end and started on the Rs4 IC's, off came the old S4 brackets and on went a pair of RS4 brackets.
Then it was out with the air cutter to trim the bodywork back to get the IC's to fit followed by a bit of head scratching as to what to do with the horns which was then duly sorted, then across to the drivers side and the relocation of the AC drier which was sorted nice and simply
Then it was on with the IC's and the APR hoses
(unfortunately I didnt get a chance to take any pics of his handy work)
Then it was back on with the AC pump and new oil filter, before it was back on with the Y-pipe and a quick pressure test which everything appears to be ok
Another session looms tomorrow after i've repaid the favour and helped him remove the turbo from a 54 plate bmw 118d which is smoking and whining like a b!tch at 118k
ScottR

Good lad Mike, coming together nicely.
MikeCS4

Cheers Scott, hopefully there is a light at the end of the tunnel somewhere.

Right onto today's session and a slight change of direction as i need to refurb my rear callipers as well as bleed the clutch so a fluid change was decided upon, so it was off with the rear wheels and then bleed out the old fluid, the level was low enough it was off with the offside rear calliper which was totally seized only to discover that i'd been supplied the wrong refurb kit by Audi , so a quick phone call to the local stealers and I should have the correct kit next wednesday.
Then while we was in the rear arch we decided to fit the RS4 suspension that i've had sat in the garage for a while now which proved to be a good decision as the offside rear spring was in 3 pieces, then round to the passenger side and swapped over the shock & spring with no major dramas although it may not have been much longer before that spring decided to give up the ghost
Then it was off with the nearside calliper so it can be cleaned and prepped ready for refurbing

Time for a few more days back at work so hopefully i should be back under it shortly and completion should hopefully be nearing
MikeCS4

Ok so time to blow the cobwebs off with a brief update.  

I had to mothball the rebuild for a couple of reasons but have finally got round to getting onto it again and have fitted my new B6 rear brake setup, replaced the suspension all round with a set of RS4 shocks and springs, which was just as well i had them sat in the garage ready for fitting as springs on the rear had both broken then once we'd replaced the front shocks & springs along with the front U-links it was time to bleed the clutch and brakes with fresh fluid, then it was in with the ebay short shift and reconnect the shift mechanism.

with another couple of sessions on the horizon it may even be time to drop it back onto the drive back off the axel stands
will1981

That's good news Mike, seems a long time ago when you started this!

Get some more pics up when it's finished  
MikeCS4

cheers Will, it's time to try and remember where everything reconnect which is going to be the fun part
frazered

good to hear about the progress, you must be missing the car, will be great to get it back on the road
MikeCS4

well, I finally decided it was warm enough to spend some more time on the car today and it's certainly looking more like a car again now

my 1st task was to try and refit the heat shields, having forgotten to put them back when i put the engine in but gave up and decided to refit a few bits that could be done with pout hindering access to them. although a call to MRC, Thanks Doug   (i think) and after a quick run through of the spec I was told that their not needed now, so it was full steam ahead

first the air box went on followed by plugging up the loom, then i replaced the spider hose as it was knackered then it was back on with the front panel followed by the aircon rad and the shrouds for the IC's

Then it was back on with the front bumper followed by a moment of school boy error as i realised i'd forgotten the viscous fan but a bit of juggling and we managed to slide it in and get it done up

then it was on with the new coolant bottle & replaced one of the Vac hoses that had perished before popping loom back into the ECU box ready for connecting up tomorrow

Roll on tomorrow and another session is on the horizon which should hopefully see it virtually finished
gizmo

Good to hear it's coming together.  You'll be grinning ear to ear when it's finally finshed, running and mapped.
MikeCS4

It's a Miracle

It Live's & breaths again !!!!!

so after a few errands done it was back out in the sunshine to crack on with the car

apologies for the lack of pics but got carried away putting it all back together

the 1st job was to check & top up the gearbox oil then back on with the Y-pipe and a pressure test which at 1st indicated a potential leak which turned out to be the tester leaking

Then it was back on with the headlight's and back in with the ECU, closely followed by the grills then back on with the MAF & accordion pipe before contemplating fitting my RS4 fuel pump which it was decided to leave in the end

then after a last few checks it was time to refill the oil & coolant before refitting the battery & replacing the scuttle covers

finally came the moment of truth & the key was turned ok so it didn't fire straight away & i was only giving it short bursts to try & get the oil round the system

Then on the 4th turn It sprang back into life followed by thoughts that the power steering pump had gone but then it we realised we'd forgotten to refill the power steering fluid.

Then it was time to scan for codes the results are below


Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 25 35 37 45 55 56 57 67 75 76 77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 078-907-551-AZA.lbl
  Part No: 8D0 907 551 D
  Component: 2.7l V6/5VT      01 0002  
  Coding: 05711
  Shop #: WSC 06325  
  VCID: 2B481111F395

3 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
           P1602 - 35-10 -  -  - Intermittent
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
           P1544 - 35-00 -  -
17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low
           P1172 - 35-00 -  -
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 8D0-907-389.lbl
  Part No: 8D0 907 389 E
  Component: ABS/ESP allrad      D26  
  Coding: 04395
  Shop #: WSC 06435  
  VCID: 357C376925D1

2 Faults Found:
18265 - Load Signal: Error Message from ECU
           P1857 - 35-00 -  -
18256 - Please check DTC Memory of Engine Controller
           P1848 - 35-00 -  -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC        Labels: 8D0-820-043-1D.lbl
  Part No: 8D0 820 043 P
  Component: A4     KLIMAAUTOMAT D58  
  Coding: 00061
  Shop #: WSC 00583  
  VCID: 2D4C1F09CD81

1 Fault Found:
00792 - A/C Pressure Switch (F129)
           31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags        Labels: 8D0-959-655-AI8.lbl
  Part No: 8D0 959 655 J
  Component: Airbag Front+Seite 0001  
  Coding: 01106
  Shop #: WSC 06325  
  VCID: 3D6C2F491DE1

1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
           07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments        Labels: 8D0-920-xxx-17.lbl
  Part No: 8D0 920 980 B
  Component: B5-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D05  
  Coding: 16462
  Shop #: WSC 00000  
  VCID: 2A461415FC6F

  Component: AUZ7Z0X1144283  
  ˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇˇ     AUZ7Z0X1144283

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks        Labels: 8D0-862-257.lbl
  Part No: 8D0 862 257 E
  Component: CV-Pump, Alarm, RC  D13  
  Coding: 13130
  Shop #: WSC 06325  
  VCID: 2F700501C78D

6 Faults Found:
01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
           35-00 -  -
01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side
           35-00 -  -
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
           35-00 -  -
01365 - Lock/Unlock Switch; Interior
           29-00 - Short to Ground
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
           76-10 - Terminal 30 missing - Intermittent
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
           49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation        Labels: Redir Fail!
  Part No: 8D0 035 192 D
  Component: Navigation         0004  
  Coding: 00000
  Shop #: WSC 00583  
  VCID: 245AFA2D9E4B

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 45: Inter. Monitor        Labels: 4B0-951-173.lbl
  Part No: 4B0 951 173
  Component: Innenraumueberw.    D03  
  Coding: 00102
  Shop #: WSC 06325  
  VCID: E0D2363D4AD3

2 Faults Found:
01380 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor; Rear Left
           35-00 -  -
01383 - Alarm triggered by Anti-Theft Sensor; Front Right
           35-00 -  -

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Xenon Range        Labels: 4B0-907-357-AUT.lbl
  Part No: 4B0 907 357
  Component: LEUCHTWEITEREGLER  D003  
  Coding: 00012
  Shop #: WSC 06325  
  VCID: E5DC272955F1

1 Fault Found:
00776 - Level Control System Sensor; Left Front (G78)
           31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
MikeCS4

I cleared all the central locking codes & some of the other codes but the following Engine & ABS codes remained


Address 01: Engine        Labels: 078-907-551-AZA.lbl
  Part No: 8D0 907 551 D
  Component: 2.7l V6/5VT      01 0002  
  Coding: 05711
  Shop #: WSC 06325  
  VCID: 2B481111F395

2 Faults Found:
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
           P1544 - 35-00 -  -
17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low
           P1172 - 35-00 -  -
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 8D0-907-389.lbl
  Part No: 8D0 907 389 E
  Component: ABS/ESP allrad      D26  
  Coding: 04395
  Shop #: WSC 06435  
  VCID: 357C376925D1

2 Faults Found:
18265 - Load Signal: Error Message from ECU
           P1857 - 35-00 -  -
18256 - Please check DTC Memory of Engine Controller
           P1848 - 35-00 -  -


Can anybody help
Tony K

Clear them, take it for a quick drive and Rescan it.
MikeCS4

I've tried clearing them but no joy and given that the codes appear to have put it in limp mode it's going no where at present
MikeCS4

SORTED !!!!!


a quick rescan and attempted alignment didn't work so a quick check under the bonnet and check of the throttle body revealed that the plug was on but hadn't clicked home
MikeCS4

Well I took the beast for it's MOT yesterday and it passed, the only advisory on it was the state of the front disc's from where it's been sat around whilst it was being fixed

Then when I got back a quick scan reported and EGT sensor shorted or open but that cleared

The only thing left now is to wait till next week & get it taxed again

then hopefully a trip to get it checked over & tweaked in the near future by which time I will hopefully have managed to fit my RS4 fuel pump in readiness for the injectors to be changed
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