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daybar

DIY K04 upgrade

The turbo fairy turned down my road at the end of the SRS Birthday trackday at Bedford Autodrome in April. I could hear her siren song, but she couldn't quite make out where I was, so I got home OK from the party, but it's only a question of time before she catches up with me.

So, being time-rich, so to speak, at the moment, and relatively cash-poor, I have decided to do as much as possible myself and save quite a few bob.

I picked up two crates of bits from MRC Friday week ago (many thanks Lucas for sorting that out) and last Monday I took the car to my parents' house and made a start on what will be the third project of my current sabbatical (the other two are golf and sailing). The picture below shows the state of play at lunchtime today - nearly all the bits I have removed from the car plus the goodies that will go on - drool!

Spec will be:-

K04s with all necessary adaptation parts and new oil lines
MRC lightweight flywheel
RS4 clutch (pressure plate and friction plate) and new release bearing
MRC big injectors
Bosch uprated fuel pump
MRC oil cooler
new oil pump, just in case

gutted precats (won't that be fun!)
MRC remap

I can't afford a complete new exhaust system at the moment and I already have RS4 SMICs (do you remember those old friends Jules?).

Since the photo, the new flywheel has gone on but everything is now sheeted over while I pursue another of the projects round the golf courses of Devon and Cornwall next week. By the time I return I may have summoned up enough strength to tighten the flywheel bolts to the seemingly impossible extent of 60nm plus a full half turn - is that really necessary? All I could manage today was 60nm plus 60 degrees or so.

Generally, things have been fine but I had problems with:-
separating the downpipes from the exhaust because the bolts had rusted solid - angle grinder solution means I need new joining sleeves at £** each
disconnecting the heater hoses at the engine like the book says - no way!
undoing the clutch slave cylinder bolt. To compensate, the cylinder itself came out easily.

More news and pics as it progresses.
Unexpected bonus has been that I have been able to keep the A/C circuit intact by removing the compressor and placing it and the condenser out of the way by the offside front wheel - doesn't look like it will be too easy to put the compressor back, but I'm not in a hurry. In fact there are lots of things that don't look like they will be easy to put back - it's all very tight.

More news and pics as it progresses.
Paz

That's quite some project you got going on there Dave - good luck with it squire!
daybar

Thanks, Paz. I'll need all the luck I can get  

Didn't start too well when a chap reversed into my daily driver at a mini roundabout yesterday evening (I don't thinkit was a scam accident), but it's very old and another battle scar won't matter that much!
buzzard

Best of luck with the build.
JohnnyB

Looks like you've got some good upgrades going in. Hope it all goes well keep us posted on how it goes.
frazered

impressed with the progress so far!  good on you for having a go yourself

I assume you have experience of engine rebuilds?
DW

Holy cow Dave - good luck with that!
Paz

He's rebuilt his pushbike a couple of times  
jimyfloyd

I'm impressed - I wish I had the time and space and I'd rebuild my gearbox!

Well I'd give it a go at least!
bluebrakes

You're brave.

Me personally, I would be very reluctant to pull an engine without a ramp.
Jules

Nice one Dave - good luck with it all mate  
spen

Excellent work.  I love the pic!  It will be worth the effort I'm sure.  
Adam

Wow Dave

Good luck with the build mate, it's gonna make the track days even more fun now

...and most definitely worthy of a place in the P&B section, eh mods
Graham

wow good luck Dave, good on you for doing it yourself.
MarkB

Adam wrote:

...and most definitely worthy of a place in the P&B section, eh mods


Sure is

Keep us posted
philws4

Top stuff Dave and hats off to you for having a crack at it yourself mate

I don't actually live a million miles away from you so if you do need a hand on a Sat or Sun then give me a shout

Enjoy the golf ( if you have any skin left on your hands )
AdamS4

Great work, espically all by yourself.

I wouldn't mind having a go at mine myself someday.... maybe when my K03's pop
philws4

Out of interest how many miles did the KO3's do before the turbo fairy turned up?
Got the N/S Ko4 in the cupboard just need the O/S then i will be going for the swap myself  
Graham

Good question Phil.

Also what were your oil temps like on track and do you think this had any bearing etc? Do you think you were always able to have the car cool to a more normal operating temp after track use before switching off?
JohnnyB

philws4 wrote:
Out of interest how many miles did the KO3's do before the turbo fairy turned up?
Got the N/S Ko4 in the cupboard just need the O/S then i will be going for the swap myself †


My car had done 150,000 miles on its original turbo's, before my O/S turbo decided to snap its shaft in half. I had no warning or weird noises.

I pulled my engine in my workshop on a ramp would'nt fancy doing it on the floor.
Grim Reaper

good work so far.

I did my turbo change about 18 months ago in my garage ( only axle stands no lift) was certainly testing at times but i'm so glad i did it in the end as you get a good knowledge of how the car works and where stuff is if need replacing etc.
Ben H

Good on you Dave, best of luck.
daybar

Thanks everyone for your encouraging comments. I don't underestimate the potential for disaster in doing this and will be taking my time to get it right.

The mileage is a bit over 111,000 so I don't feel particularly hard done by that a turbo has failed. I have always warmed up and cooled down carefully. It had an MRC custom remap at 89,000 miles since when it's had new Mobil 1 every 5,000 or so. The previous owner had full Audi service and was aware of the need to cosset the turbos. I can't point to any specific reason for failure in this case. I don't think the trackday had much to do with it.

I got the n/s turbo off today. There's discernible play in the compressor shaft so I assume that's the problem.

Weather permitting, more progress tomorrow.
DavidT

Great to see Dave
AdamS4

daybar wrote:
Weather permitting, more progress tomorrow.


And pictures please  
daybar

Weather OK so more progress today, but it's slow going at times!

N/s turbo off and replaced with the new K04, new turbo oil supply lines each side and o/s turbo off.

Here's a pic of the new lightweight flywheel bolted to the crankshaft


And one of the new turbo in position


Unexpected hassles today were:-

1. Both oil supply lines to the turbos were really difficult to screw in to the distribution piece on the block - next to no room for the n/s one and I had to remove the inlet manifold to do the o/s one. Spent hours in total doing those.

2. The manifold to turbo bolts were exceptionally tight and on each side I broke an 8 mm allen key on the one that I guess gets the hottest, ie nearest the engine. The others weren't much better and I had to use a 3 foot (that's a bit less than a metre, younger readers) extension bar to crack them. Odd because the tightening torque is not that much.

Anyway, the target for tomorrow is to fit the o/s turbo, install the new fuel injectors and put the inlet manifold back.
viperbl

Looking good fella, nice and shiney anyway
ScottR

Your car will run like shit if you fit new injectors without mapping it.  Probably worth waiting to fit those when you are going for a tune.
daybar

ScottR wrote:
Your car will run like shit if you fit new injectors without mapping it. †Probably worth waiting to fit those when you are going for a tune.


Absolutely agree - first journey after it's put back together will be to MRC.

viperbl wrote:
Looking good fella, nice and shiney anyway


Cheers - such a pity you can't see the shine when you look under the bonnet
Adam

Cheers for the pics Dave, adds a bit of clarity to the text for those of us who have no idea what you are talking about

Very well done so far Sir
Paz

Kudos dude!
jeffw

Looking good David
davidr

daybar wrote:
I had to use a 3 foot (that's a bit less than a metre, younger readers) extension bar


Ah good on ya Dave big up for the effort ... Nice bit of space there too & love the explanations.....
MarkB

daybar wrote:
ScottR wrote:
Your car will run like shit if you fit new injectors without mapping it. †Probably worth waiting to fit those when you are going for a tune.


Absolutely agree - first journey after it's put back together will be to MRC.


I'd go as far to say don't run it with the new injectors in unless you have a safe map to get you going. I even doubt it would start anyway.

Good work so far David
James

Many congratulations for having a go. Hope you get it finished without too many more issues..
mikey-s

I'd speak with MRC about a safe map. I was informed by Doug that I didn't need a safe map when I fitted my RS MAF & Injectors. It started first time and run sweet for 200 miles before I could get it to MRC, so you may not need one.
DavidT

Our daybar will have this whole mapping thing covered I reckon, he's been in touch with MRC in the wallet testing sense I think
daybar

Thanks for your comments, guys. I've just emailed MRC to ask if the car will be OK as is or whether it would be best to have a safe map to get it up to them for a custom remap.  

More progress today. Offside turbo and new injectors fitted, inlet manifold put back. Here's a pic of the turbo, as if you hadn't seen dozens before!



No real problems today but I broke the spider hose by accident (hand slipped) so just as well I have another one in the garage from when I did the F hose delete (when I thought there was a good chance I'd mess it up) - doesn't look like it will be too hard to install the new one with the engine out

If you're having a go at this yourself, you will need to grind down 19mm and 17mm ring spanners by 2 or 3 mm to reduce the depth of the ring. There are a couple of connectors on one or other of the turbos that  are semi covered and only a slim spanner can get to them. The pipe work to the turbos is a minor miracle of precision engineering.

Tomorrow it's torque up the flywheel bolts a bit more and fit the clutch. I'll also have a go at modifying the S4 intake pipes from the Y pipe down to the new RS4 turbo intake pipes. It looks as though an inch or so has to be sawn off the S4 pipes so they can be connected to the turbo intake pipes using a silicon hose. This is an economy solution that avoids changing all the intake pipes to RS4 spec. If I can face it, I'll make a start on the precats as well.
Adam

He's gonna be a contender at ADI
davidr

daybar wrote:
If I can face it, I'll make a start on the precats as well.


If you haven't got one and can afford hiring a 18v Bosch SDS drill from the hire shop   or 110v .... Get yourself 2 or 3 16-18mm SDS auger bits...
Clamp the buggers in the workmate up and start having fun,
the auger bits chew it up and remove the cored debri realy well, collapse them in with a big tool, pull the crap out, 1st one took under an 1hr, 2nd - 20 mins

Dont forget to clear out debri fallen onto main cats...  

Click to see full size image
daybar

Thanks for the tip, David - I'll call in at B&Q this morning and see what their auger bits look like
davidr

10mm auger melted in a short time
daybar

No pics today because I mislaid the camera  but the work to the engine is nearly done.

I had to remove the new injectors and put the old ones back - Doug did not recommend driving it with the new ones installed, so just as well I hadn't binned the old ones. They'll be swapped at MRC ready for the new map. With so much practice, it will take me about 20 minutes.

Clutch has been fitted, after having another go at torquing up the flywheel bolts. I got another quarter turn on them but broke two spline tools in the process. They must be tight enough now. My Dad made a clutch plate alignment tool that is available for hire at very reasonable rates.....

New spider hose went on in about 5 minutes, and most of that was spent looking for the hacksaw to remove the part that would otherwise have gone to the F hose.

The intake pipes from the Y pipe to the new RS4 intakes needed about 2 inches (50mm for the benefit of the youngsters) sawn off the lower ends and now fit perfectly.

So tomorrow's tasks will be to instal the new clutch release bearing, instal new gear shift rod that got broken by accident when it got in the way of something and bleed the clutch cylinder while it's accessible - I doubt it's ever been done. I shall be taking care to keep the piston confined in that process as I don't want it to pop out, so to speak. Then double check everything. And there may be time to join the tranny to the engine.

And finally, in a twist to the usual story, MRC supplied some short allen headed screws with washers and self locking nuts and I haven't a clue what they're for. I don't remember taking off any like them but, there again, I am approaching the CRAFT time of life - Can't Remember a F==cking Thing!
MarkB

Great read so far, one thing you didn't mention at the beginning was what method you used to get the engine out.

Did you drop the cross member or remove the halfshafts?
daybar

MarkB wrote:

Did you drop the cross member or remove the halfshafts?


I took the half shafts out, not least because I didn't want to lose the subframe alignment. Luckily, the driveshaft bolts came undone OK (if somewhat reluctantly) and there was no trouble with the upper arms to upright pinch bolts because I renewed them when I did the Eibach suspension upgrade last year.

It was rather fiddly getting the driveshafts out past everything and quite a bit of grease from the inner CV joints was left behind on the diff hubs so I've got some more to refill them. I used a trolley jack to support the tranny as it came out. Putting it back will be the reverse of removal, won't it?  I should be so lucky.

Anyway, I'm going to the hire shop for a serious power drill this morning and will gut the precats as the first job. I found that auger bits at B&Q were rather too reassuringly expensive at over £20 each and got two for £15 at a timber merchant up the road - worth shopping around.
daybar

|t's getting closer!

The precats didn't hold out long against the Bosch drill I hired for £20. Here's a series of pics

Do you feel lucky, punk? Well, do you?



A couple of minutes later



And about half an hour later



So, precats degutted, clutch release bearing installed, everything double checked, and then tranny attached to engine. Well, not quite that easy, of course, but it went together OK in the end without too much verbal encouragement. Here's what it looked like at the close of play this afternoon.



There are several tranny to engine bolts of differing lengths and I'm going to have to play around with them a bit 'cos I can't quite remember where they all go...

I'll be happy if it's all back in the car tomorrow ready for the driveshafts, pipes and wires to be connected.
Graham

Brilliant thread, keep it up Dave. The regular updates are excellent reading.
jimbo

precats are sooooo restrictive, cant really understand why they were put there in the first place, no wonder you get good gains when they are removed
daybar

Not a great deal of obvious (ie photographable) progress yesterday as it took a while to solve the riddle of the tranny bolts and several more minutes to reattach the starter motor which is held by a couple of those bolts and had wandered off when I wasn't looking.

I won't be able to do any more until Wednesday at the earliest. I discovered that I don't have the right clip for the heater hose to engine connection - I saved one of them but have lost the other. No way to instal the clip easily with the engine in. Also, having destroyed the old ones, I inexplicably only got one new exhaust pipe connecting sleeve - two are needed to connect the dp s to the catback part.    I don't expect them to be in stock when I go to the dealer on Tuesday......

More news when there is some
DavidT

An excellent read Davey †more pics please

When is the first planned outing ?
daybar

Next step now is to put it all back

There have been some ups and downs in the last few days but all now sorted. An up was the fact that the dealer had an exhaust sleeve in stock on Tuesday. A down was that the heater hose clip I lost doesn't seem to be available on its own. New hose is £20 odd and they're on back order.  So I turned the parents' garden upside down this morning and eventually found the old clip - phew!

Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder is not as easy as it might be....

New oil pump fitted yesterday and sump back on. I think I'll need to fill the pump with oil via the filter pipe to help it draw from the sump when I first turn the engine over. I had to do that the last time I did a major engine job as the oil pressure light wasn't going out when the engine fired. Not what you want when you've just rebuilt all the internals.

Weather today not conducive to doing any more so I hope there's no more rain tomorrow.

More pics tomorrow, but none today as there was nothing much to see.
Adam

Loving this report Dave, keep it up
daybar

Thanks for your encouragement, guys. Now and again there's a dark moment when I wonder if I'll get it finished......

Onwards and upwards  
philws4

I take my hat off to you Dave for having a go 'at home' .

I have the offer to use my brother in laws garage/lift/air tools etc and am still unsure wheather i would tackle this myself, but guess it would save a few £ in the process if done systematically.
daybar

Aaaarrrgggghhhhh! I said earlier that bleeding the clutch hydraulics was not as easy as it might be. I spoke too soon...it's proving next to impossible.

First of all it's not that easy to get the slave cylinder located and then bolted into the top of the clutch bellhousing, or at least I didn't think so and have spent a lot of time and not a little of my unprintable vocabulary on it over the last couple of work sessions. Anyway, I think it's located properly now but to do so I had to disconnect the hydraulic pipe to it. So it needs bleeding.

I know you can't bleed the clutch circuit by pushing the clutch pedal and have to use air pressure. I've got a Gunson's Eazibleed kit that has always worked well in the past for bleeding brakes but it did not clear the air when used from the top (ie pressurisng the fluid reservoir in the usual way) and I tried reverse bleeding by connecting the fluid supply to the slave cylinder bleed nipple and forcing fluid back up into the reservoir via the clutch master cylinder. No joy either way. The clutch pedal goes straight to the floor.

The Haynes Audi A4 manual says the system is bled by air pressure on the fluid reservoir and doesn't suggest there is anything particularly difficult. The Bentley manual refers to special VAG bleeding kit. There's no picture of that kit connected to the system, but it does say the air pressure to use is 2.5 bar which would almost certainly explode the reservoir if applied to it, so it made me think that the VAG kit is attached to the slave cylinder bleed nipple.

There must be a knack to this - can someone tell me please?

Anyway, I've now run out of brake fluid and can't get any more until Monday so that's all for now, I'm afraid.

But the boat project is now up and floating - she was launched yesterday. Cockpit still unfinished but the boat builder is confident of getting it done this week. It's a hobby to us, so no point getting angry about it! I'm just pleased to see her in her proper element.
musty

You can do it by pressing the clutch pedal I have done this before, when I done my first ever engine pull i disconnected the pipe and yes what a basted it was to bleed after rounding the plastic nut whilst using bleeding kit (pressurizing one) i managed to get one spanner to fit and had a mate pump the pedal got fed u with the pressurizing kit!

For next time just unbolt the slave cylinder from the bell housing instead of taking the pipe off
PaulyRS4

Really good thred love the detail good work and hope all goes well.
daybar

Cheers, Musty, I'll have another go on Monday

It's not the first time I've heard about problem with clutch hydraulics - so what was so wrong with cables then?  
viperbl

musty wrote:
You can do it by pressing the clutch pedal I have done this before, when I done my first ever engine pull i disconnected the pipe and yes what a basted it was to bleed after rounding the plastic nut whilst using bleeding kit (pressurizing one) i managed to get one spanner to fit and had a mate pump the pedal got fed u with the pressurizing kit!

For next time just unbolt the slave cylinder from the bell housing instead of taking the pipe off


I have done this too many times, just lots of pumping and bleeding, but watch that plastic nipple as musty said, I have had to buy, err, more than one of these!

Musty, that is such a simple idea, unbolt the slave, next time I am doing that for sure!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Keep up the good work mate
musty

daybar wrote:
Cheers, Musty, I'll have another go on Monday

It's not the first time I've heard about problem with clutch hydraulics - so what was so wrong with cables then? †



Hydraulics give a less harsh of a pedal feel I have just done a Mk2 Golf VR6 conversion and used a cable for the clutch and it is harsh compared to the Mk3 which is hydraulic.


Rich how many engine pulls and only now you realize that LOL
daybar

The plastic nipple is looking rather the worse for wear  - you don't happen to know how to get another one or two, do you? They don't seem to be listed as separate items in ETKA and I don't think an ordinary nipple will fit. Is it a trip to the scrap yard? I had hoped I was too old for all that
CliveH

Dave, I take my hat off to you too, excellent stuff!

Keep up the good work and superb commentary
james-Audidoctor

try pressure bleeding the clutch with the pedal held half down for a minute then slowly pump it a few times as the fluid is bleeding through  
viperbl

daybar wrote:
The plastic nipple is looking rather the worse for wear †- you don't happen to know how to get another one or two, do you? They don't seem to be listed as separate items in ETKA and I don't think an ordinary nipple will fit. Is it a trip to the scrap yard? I had hoped I was too old for all that


I had to end up buying new slaves
daybar

viperbl wrote:
I had to end up buying new slaves


Ouch!

I'll have another go this afternoon and will try everything - including ritual sacrifice if that's what it takes
daybar

Aaaarrrggghhh and double aaaarrrggghhh! The clutch is still not right and I'm a litre and a half of Ate racing blue fluid down the drain as well.    It's better than it was but it ain't right.

I'll get a new slave cylinder in case I've managed to damage the seal or perhaps air is leaking back past the bleed nipple because (maybe) I've damaged it in some way.

Loads of air keeps coming out so there must be somewhere it's getting in. I have no doubt I'll get there in the end, but I may just have to renew the clutch release system in the process...
viperbl

What I do is keep pumping the pedel, then with the pedle down, get someone to bleed it, once it stopped coming out,close it, and repeat

Only problem with opening it when the pedel is down is that it has a lot of pressure on the nipple and this is what fecks it I think, maybe someone else can confirm if ok to release with pedel up, then press down when open.

You have to do this MANY times, but keep at it.

Also, make sure the header tank does not run out
Doug

If you leave the master cylinder to go dry (let the fluid run out of the slave cylinder line) for more than a day or 2, the seals go hard and will not work.

Get a new reservoir and pressure bleed at 20 psi.

Use a 6 sided 9mm spaner (pita to find - snap on do them - and cut it down). Remove the expansion tank and you can reach down from the top.
daybar

Doug - thanks for your comments, but the master cylinder hasn't run dry at all - I sealed the end of the feed pipe (at the slave end) and the reservoir level has never got down to the clutch feed pipe. However, the slave may have been dry the other day so perhaps that has done for its seals.

Rich - something like the procedure you described did improve things, but surely they can't have designed the thing like that for mass production?

Tomorrow is another day
viperbl

Kills me every time I do it!! (but not anytime soon again, thanks musty ) but gotta be done, just keep going and going and going, it will start to get firmer and eventually ping all the way back up itself...
daybar

Aaaaahhhh that's better  Certainly not aaaarrrrgggghhhh, I'm happy to say.

New clutch slave cylinder and much bleeding of the clutch hydraulics later and the clutch pedal pops back up from the floor and I think it's OK now. Funnily enough, I can't remember exactly how it was before but now the pedal has the faintest hint of a hesitation about halfway back up but it does come all the way up so I'm hoping that will be fine.

So, heater hoses reconnected and starter cable routed round the side so it will run under the engine mounts (someone tell me pdq if that's wrong, please!) and the process of reuniting the engine with the car began.

And about 2 hours and not as much language as I had expected later, the engine and tranny are resting on their mounts and all the nuts are done up finger tight for now.

As recommended elsewhere, I bounced it about a bit on its mountings and it all seems properly settled with no obvious strains. The mounting bolts are in the right holes and everything lines up. The only difficuty was when the gear shift housing (rubber box thing) flopped down and got caught up in the end of the rear prop shaft - took a while to work out that was why the engine wouldn't go back far enough.

Here's a photo of it back in the engine bay. The hoist is not needed now but I left it connected just in case...  



Tomorrow I start bolting everything down properly, driveshafts back in, pipes reconnected, plugs plugged etc. That's when I'll find out if there are any "spare" nuts and bolts and also if I can manage to plug the right plugs in the right sockets.

Next time (if there is a next time) I shall leave the bl**dy clutch slave cylinder well alone and I recommend that you do the same - unbolt it as the engine comes out, hang it up on the firewall on a piece of string and put it back when the engine goes in. Bleeding it cost me £50 for a new slave, approx £25 in ATE blue racing brake fluid and the best part of 5 days delay. OK I wouldn't have spent all that lost time on the car, but none the less...  
Jules

Good going Dave - hats off to you Sir!
daybar

Cheers, Jules and everyone else, all encouragement gratefully received
mikeyquattro

Fair play to you! Hope it all goes back together ok and you get lots of driving pleasure out of it!
DavidT

Loving it Dave, fair play to you. Roast dinner on me at GTi Intl
daybar

DavidT wrote:
Roast dinner on me at GTi Intl


Let's hope it's ready in time  

Anyway. got quite a bit done today but none of it was photogenic, so no pics. Front driveshafts reinstalled but need torquing up properly when I have an assistant to stand on the brakes. The usual fight was put up by the o/s upper wishbones when I put their ball joints back in the front upright but the n/s ones gave in without a struggle.

Engine and tranny mountings torqued up, exhaust reunited with the downpipes, all available plugs plugged into what look like the right sockets and the ecu and all that lot put back. Earths cleaned and reattached, including a sneaky one at the offside front that connects to the chassis member - I bet the starter motor won't work without that.

The prop shaft will need doing again when I can get the car higher as there's a rubber oilseal/gasket that has to be installed as you bolt the prop shaft to the output shaft - no way I could manipulate that number of things (not to mention the joint grease over everything) with only one hand and almost no visibility.

Fingers crossed...
s4woody

DavidT wrote:
Loving it Dave, fair play to you. Roast dinner on me at GTi Intl

i think he'd rather it was on a plate...
daybar

s4woody wrote:
DavidT wrote:
Loving it Dave, fair play to you. Roast dinner on me at GTi Intl

i think he'd rather it was on a plate...


I wish I'd said that, Simon - I lolled
Jules

Yeah - that got a lol out of me too ...
DavidT

Ha ha very funny
James

Amusing
daybar

Did the cambelt and renewed the water pump, thermostat and pulleys for the cambelt idler and tensioner today. It took all day and was not without its challenges.

I got the correct timing bar and crank locking pin from Philip Walker and was very glad I did. It seems that the Audi garage that did the cambelt at 80k did not use them as there were blue paint blobs at strategic places on the timing marks, cam pulleys and belt covers and the timing bar did not quite fit properly when I offered it up. Not hugely out, but not spot on.

Took me ages to work out where the crank locking pin went, not helped by the torch battery running out. It screws in a hole about 8 inches down the right hand (looking from the front) side of the block, protected by a plastic cover held on with a small bolt. Would be a real pita with the a/c compressor in position; fortunately mine's out at the moment. Also, it was much easier once I'd got the O ring out as well as the cover...

I then realised that the cam pulleys weren't going to pop off the camshaft ends without a good deal of persuasion. I bought a two legged gear puller (three legged one is unlikely to fit) and couldn't believe how much I had to tighten the bolt on it. When each pulley released it was so violent I thought I had broken the pulley or the puller  Certainly not for the faint hearted.

The water pump has 9 bolts. 8 are readily accessible, but the 9th is hidden behind the pas pump, so that has to come out as well......

The belt-driven rad fan housing has 4 bolts - 2 of them are captive and hidden behind the drive pulley and you get to them through holes in the pulley - no way you'd guess they were there. And you need something to counter hold the pulley when undoing (and doing up) the fan mounting nut (22mm), which is a reverse thread to boot.

But after overcoming all those little obstacles, the actual process of fitting and tensioning the belt was straightforward and the covers all went back easily - not something I'm used to on other cars.

Turned the engine over a few times (with a socket on the crankshaft nut) and it all stayed timed so I reckon that's OK

It's obviously possible to do all this without removing the front of the car but it's a lot easier without the fan/radiator housing in place and with the a/c compressor out of the way.

Tomorrow I hope to hear the bell for the final lap. Tasks still to do include reinstalling the gear lever assembly, fan/rad assembly, intercoolers, a/c compressor and condenser and installing the ancillary oil cooler. I'll leave the new fuel pump until later.
daybar

It's starting to look like a car again, I'm pleased to say

Here's a pic of the close of play today



Today I installed the gear lever mechanism (more bashed knuckles), a/c compressor, airbox and inlet system, charge pipes and o/s intercooler, DTS and drive belt.

I also started thinking about how to instal the ancillary oil cooler. The connectors I've got for the pipes to and from the heat exchanger are three 90 degree bends and one 135 degree bend. The exchanger will go vertically next to the rad fan in front of the a/c condenser. Looking at a picture of JohnnyB's car showing his cooler, I see there's a straight connector for the lower connection to the exchanger, but I can't see how the pipes connect to the adapter plate on the oil filter housing.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can get mine to work with the parts I've got? I have smics so it's not an option to put the heat exchanger in the side pod.

The only new parts left to fit are the cooler and the fuel pump. Tomorrow is a day off and I'll resume on Sunday.

I hope to get to the point of starting tthe engine, after allowing the throttle plate to adapt and also after churning it a while on the starter with the spark circuit disconnected, just to check that the oil pressure comes up and to make doubly sure there's oil in the turbo bearings before they start spinning for real.

I'm provisionally booked in at MRC on Wednesday afternoon for the new injectors to be fitted, a health check and a remap.  
S4

Try to get hold of an APR Bi-Pipe....... dont want them K04`s leaking out the TTB.


Darren
Adam

Yep, definitely a bi-pipe Dave. You've done brill mate
DavidT

Brill job Dave, it looks like a new un

Another bi-pipe vote here, dunno how much they are but less that £ 300 all in I think, PW does them.
loomx

Agreed, better fitting it now, then deciding you want it with the front end back on
Ghost

Quote:
I got the correct timing bar and crank locking pin from Philip Walker and was very glad I did.


Essential for a DIY job - owe Rich big time for him lending me this and keep up the excellent work Dave, looking good mate.
daybar

OK, bi-pipe - I get the message I'll see what I can do.....
daybar

I don't mind admitting there have been times over the last month when I wondered if I would be able to take this photo any time soon:-



There are still a few things to do. I gave up on the oil cooler as I could see that taking a disproportionate amount of time and it's not essential for getting the car back on the road - it will be done before the next trackday though.

So today I put the rad subframe back on, connected up another small forest of plugs and pipes, filled up with fluids and turned the engine over on the starter for quite a while (you disconnect those 4 plugs on top of the air box to stop the engine firing). Then I reconnected the plugs and started it for real.

Horrifying sound of bolts being shaken violently in a tin can. Immediate switch off. Icy hand clutched heart. WTF had I forgotten? Clearly the hydraulic tappets were dry. So why hadn't the oil got to them? I took the oil filter off and found it full, so the pump was working. Looked at the oem oil cooler thing in case I'd fitted it wrongly and oil wasn't going into the engine from the filter. All looked OK.

Churned it a lot more on the starter and then tried it again for real. This time it fired with the usual purring whir, no hint of boxes of bolts. I guess it takes a while for the oil to reach the heads when you spin it on the starter.....

I let it tick over until up to temperature and then some more. There was the usual steam and smoke as the hot bits dealt with oily fingermarks and various spillages    but nothing worse and no apparent leaks. So that was heart in mouth moment no 1 over and done with

The next worry was whether the clutch would disengage to enable me to select a gear. After all the aggro bleeding the clutch, I couldn't dismiss the possibility that there was still air in it and it wouldn't work. Much gnashing of teeth and berating of the heavens if that had been the case.

Well, it was OK. Engine on, clutch down, into first without drama, clutch up and the car rolled forward. Into reverse (not the easiest thing to achieve sometimes) clutch up, car rolled backwards Engine off, don't push your luck!

The clutch feels lighter than the old one even though the pressure plate has stronger springs. It bites pretty close to the bottom of the pedal stroke but I won't know if that's the same as the old one until I take it out on the road.

Tomorrow it's a phone call to the insurers to let them tell me how much they want to load the premium for the extra power I'm hoping to get, then I'll have a go at fitting the new fuel pump. And if that all goes OK I expect I shall succumb to a little test drive just to make sure all is well. N75 will be disconnected and I shan't be pushing the outer envelope of the performance, but it will be nice to drive a proper car again.  
philws4

Well done Dave, a real sense of satisfaction now i guess

So once the fuel pump is fitted and a 'low key' road test completed then i guess your off to MRC to have the injectors and the map done. I for one will be interested to see what the power goes up to

Might have to pick your brains later this year as i am going down the same route and think i will tackle the job myself using brother in laws lift etc.

Keep us informed on the weeks events

P.S How many bits did you have left over?
daybar

I can't quite believe it, to be honest! Something disastrous must be about to happen

Off to MRC on Wednesday - I shall be very interested to hear what power Doug thinks it makes after he's done the remap and will be sure to let you know.

philws4 wrote:
P.S How many bits did you have left over?


LOL I forgot to put on the plastic head covers and can do them when the injectors are changed but amazingly I haven't come across any "spare" nuts, bolts or other bits, so far at least † Some of the wiring runs aren't as neat as they used to be but I can live with that
mikeyquattro

congrats and well done! I hope the trip to mrc is the icing on the cake
Paz

Hats off to you Dave, job well done!
daybar

With any luck, it's now all over bar the remap

I decided that changing the fuel pump was going to be fraught with potential disaster, so will ask MRC to do it on Wdnesday - Bentley mentions two special tools to remove and instal and there's a lot of plastic that I can just see myself breaking Not to mention small nuts and washers on the electrical terminals that seem bound to drop into the tank.

So there was nothing for it but to take to the open road to find out if all is well. End result, not too bad. The ABS light on the dash has come on but I was half expecting that after removing the front driveshafts.

And there's a slightly uncouth rattling from (I think) the gearbox at about 1300 to 1800 rpm in the lower gears. This could be the result of the light weight flywheel, or reduced gearbox oil (you lose some when disconnecting the radiator and associated gearbox oil pipes) or a combination of the two, or nothing to do with either of them. I have every confidence that Doug will know what to do

The clutch feels fine and is much lighter. The gear change is OK and I can get reverse more easily than before but I might spend some time adjusting it when I can be bothered.

Maximum boost with disconnected N75 seems to be 0.5 bar, which was enough to remind me what's so good about these cars.

So the car's at home and I'll have to go down to the parents' house soon with madam and the Volvo to pick up all the kit I haven't brought back yet....

I'll update later in the week when I'm back from MRC
mikeyquattro

Pump change isn't too bad if you have the tool. It's a nightmare if you don't have it!

Roll on Wednesday....
daybar

mikeyquattro wrote:
Pump change isn't too bad if you have the tool. It's a nightmare if you don't have it!

Roll on Wednesday....


MarkB

Well done David.

daybar wrote:

And there's a slightly uncouth rattling from (I think) the gearbox at about 1300 to 1800 rpm in the lower gears. This could be the result of the light weight flywheel, or reduced gearbox oil (you lose some when disconnecting the radiator and associated gearbox oil pipes)


It will be the flywheel.
Parptoot

Congratulations, what a great sense of achievemnet and a good read for me.
Ghost

Congrats David.
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