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sammyb

DRC removal

I will be looking at getting coilovers int he next month or so, how do i go about disconnecting the DRC pump/pipes??
IanH755

Very carefully, there can be about 200psi in those pipes if they haven't leaked yet and the "non-return" valve never works so you could be in for a shock!

The actual connections are standard fittings similar to brake lines I believe.

Most companies leave the X-valves and accumulators fitted and only only remove the pipes from the struts to the accumulators.
sammyb

Ah right ok, yeah I get the feeling they are just fcked!
So just leave the pipes to the shocker unit there?
IanH755

Disconnect the pipes from the shocks (you'll be replacing these) and disconnect the other end of the pipes from the two accumulators on the rear bulkhead. There's one on the 1 left & 1 right, they're just above the rear driveshafts and there's a cross-feed valve too. Those three things (valve and accumulators) can stay if you really want to or are pushed for time but remove all pipes.
C J

Leave the pipes.
Just remove the 4 shocks and the main valve which is sandwiched between the spare wheel well and rear diff.
Like Ian says you disconnect the pipes on the inner arches and they do just look like big brake pipes.
sammyb

Ok thanks, what do people reccomend coil over wise? My local parts supplier can order a few different ones in but curious to what people rate on the c5
kwalker705

My lines are all capped off with plugs of some sort.  I wondered if they came with the coilovers.

I have KW's fitted to mine. Like the handling and the ride quality but I prefer a stiffer setup than most people.
sammyb

Kw's are a tad out of my budget!!!!
IanH755

KW V3 and Bilstein PSS9 (B16) are the two the vast majority go for but the also cost the most.

The Bilstein PSS B14's are 1/2 price but the damping is non-adjustable and they're a bit harsh (or the ones on the car I was a passenger in were knackered).

The guys in the states highly rate Koni shocks (Yellow or FSD) and springs (25mm drop) but I don't know many in the UK with them who you can chat to.

The last ones are H&R which have a hit & miss reputation. The rear "will" sag and need adjusting and the ride is a bit harsh for B-roads and some A-roads but they're cheap and work.

I'd also consider some thicker ARB's whilst you're at it. The combo of B16 coilovers & H&R ARB's really made a massive difference to my confidence in the cars ability to corner at silly speeds, much more so than on the stock parts.
bigben143

Save for the kW's dude they are bang on work really well

Where I live is pot hole city and they absorb every 1 with no issues, also handling is spot on and takes the boat feel away.
Nobby

I removed mine in June - completely removed everything so there are no pipes remaning. Wasn't that hard but some of the pipes go up and under the heatshields. Took a while but some of them where cut with snippers to remove - you'd take ages to get them out in one piece.

Re: the pressure - one of my damper was leaking, as was one pipe and also a valve. Can't remember if they were on the same circiut. To remove undo the connector on the back of the dampers and cover with a thick rag. Undo it a tiny amount - it may fizz for a 10 seconds. Just make sure you don't get any in your eyes etc..

I also removed my valves - you might want to do the same if they aren't broken. They are fairly expensive from Audi so I wouldn't want to leave them open to the elements. You will also lose a bit of weight from the rear

When chaning your shocks I'd buy new top mounts for the front and check the rear ones too. Not that expensive

Chris
IanH755

Nobby wrote:
When changing your shocks I'd buy new top mounts for the front and check the rear ones too. Not that expensive


Definitely do this, my fronts and one rear were mangled!
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