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Adz552

getting to know my s4

So after buying my s4 last month I've found a few annoyances that I hope some guys may have encountered before and have a fix for.
A few I was told buy the previous owner and I knew about and was expecting. I'll just list them.
1 I have a tinny rattle f tom the o/s turbo/ downpipe area was told that it was a rattling turbo actuator. I've had a look and gave the actuator a wiggle but all seems ok and boosts ok. I'll have a better look when I have the engine and box out to do the cambelt and clutch later this month or next month
2 fuel gauge is a but unpredictable unreliable
3 has the common dash display issue but also the milage counter has missing pixels too so can't read the milage
4 Whining rear diff. Hoping to rebuild it rather then get a second hand one. Would like to hear other people thoughts on this.
5 the handling isn't very confidence inspiring. Feels a bit twitchy. Car has spacers on the front and not the rear because it has porsche brakes upfront. Hoping poly bushes Bilstein shock and h & springs will sort that out.
6 bulb warning light on the dash constantly. all bulbs are ok
7 pad sensor warning on dash constantly but I know why that's on but well annoying
8 leaking washer bottle. Not looked into that one yet.
9 heater fan is sometimes on strike like southern rail

Would like any info you might have to help me narrow down the issues
Thanks
C J

Re: getting to know my s4

Adz552 wrote:
So after buying my s4 last month I've found a few annoyances that I hope some guys may have encountered before and have a fix for.
A few I was told buy the previous owner and I knew about and was expecting. I'll just list them.
1 I have a tinny rattle f tom the o/s turbo/ downpipe area was told that it was a rattling turbo actuator. I've had a look and gave the actuator a wiggle but all seems ok and boosts ok. I'll have a better look when I have the engine and box out to do the cambelt and clutch later this month or next month
2 fuel gauge is a but unpredictable unreliable
3 has the common dash display issue but also the milage counter has missing pixels too so can't read the milage
4 Whining rear diff. Hoping to rebuild it rather then get a second hand one. Would like to hear other people thoughts on this.
5 the handling isn't very confidence inspiring. Feels a bit twitchy. Car has spacers on the front and not the rear because it has porsche brakes upfront. Hoping poly bushes Bilstein shock and h & springs will sort that out.
6 bulb warning light on the dash constantly. all bulbs are ok
7 pad sensor warning on dash constantly but I know why that's on but well annoying
8 leaking washer bottle. Not looked into that one yet.
9 heater fan is sometimes on strike like southern rail

Would like any info you might have to help me narrow down the issues
Thanks



1: let's hope it's not the rattly manifold issue. Usually only pfl but I have dealt with a facelift breaking up.
2: more than likely the tank level sender. But read it with vagcom and do a cluster sweep.
3: send cluster away to Jason on here. He can fix the dis and the mileometer. He's done both faults for me in the past.
4: jockthe dog on here is your man to recon your diff. If it's bearing it'll be good to go. If it's gear wear it'll be a replacement diff.
5: check all bushes, tyres and alignment.
6: physically check all the bulbs. Even though it's working it might not be the right wattage which will throw a light. Could be poor quality retrofit items too like leds.
7: bridge the sensors out.
8: more than likely the headlight washer pump split open. Common as muck.
9: check voltage to the fan when it should be on. Quite easy with the glovebox removed. Possibly just the fan motor.
Burnzybubbles

Rattle could very well be manifold rattle and well documented on here, engine out and replace manifolds with facelift manifolds at least or aftermarket manifolds from trusted manufacturers.

Not sure about fuel guage, could be a dash or sender issue, noggy mike on here found a broken connection on a sender not long ago so maybe worth pulling them out the tank and checking with a multimeter and visually.

Not seen the mileage pixels missing issue, but then again iv not been around the b5 platform long enough to be honest, might just be bad solder joints and maybe have a go when clocks are disassembled for DIS repair, for some reason I feel the odometer just comes out on these clocks but I'm not sure.

Rebuild will be better than second hand but is going to be costly and not sure where to source parts from.

Handling is probably worn bushes and in need of a 4 wheel alignment with a competent person, also having all 4 wheels running on the same track is going to help.

Bulb warning light maybe be corroded contacts or a bulb on its last legs, have you also checked centre brake light?

Leaking washer bottle could be a number of things, best just looking at it first, if you have xenons then the headlight washer system can be a pain until fixed properly as I'm finding out.

If your referring to heater fan inside car then it could be the blower motor itself but a check on VCDS might give you some indication I'd like to think.
jimbo

I can sort you a diff, washer bottle and fuel sender if needed  
Aragorn

the bulb warning has different symbols for different bulbs

Failing blower motor is common, the brushes simply wear away.
Adz552

Cheers guys ill look in to all those points.

Mine is a face lift model so hope the manifolds are ok. Guess I'll find out when the engine is out.

Also it always runs cold. About 60degs goes up when i boot it and when i drive it and turn off for 5 minutes when i turn it back on itll be up around 80/90 but once its running again comes back down.  Hope that's a stuck thermostat Or a fan on constantly. Doing the cambelt water pump and thermostat when engine out so thank that will sort it. Not had time to properly have a good look yet
confusionhunter

Ive just suffered a manifold failure on a facelift convinced that it was my lower oil cooler mount thats was rattling and it was a facelift, I ignored.

That was until the manifold dropped metal into my turbo... So thats cost me recon turbos and some of Nialls tubular manfolds. At the age of these cars and mileage not even facelifts are safe from manifold failure.
Burnzybubbles

For manifold issue I've had success with drilling and tapping m6 holes in the manifold and then screwing m6 bolts into it to hold the inner section in place, I used 1 bolt at first but it kept working loose, I then put 3 bolts in and it's held since without issue, this is only a temporary fix as I have got manifolds waiting to be fitted, but it may get someone out of trouble for the mean time

Oh and I used a stethoscope to pin point the rattling section, I was lucky as it was in the top of the manifold where it bends round and I could get to the area quite easily.
Adz552

confusionhunter wrote:
Ive just suffered a manifold failure on a facelift convinced that it was my lower oil cooler mount thats was rattling and it was a facelift, I ignored.

That was until the manifold dropped metal into my turbo... So thats cost me recon turbos and some of Nialls tubular manfolds. At the age of these cars and mileage not even facelifts are safe from manifold failure.


Is that the picture of your manifold in your sig line
How much were they and where can I get them.

The rattling sounds like metal in the exhaust post turbo in the top of the downpipe
Noggymike

Think you got all Q's answered there ok

Re car running cold, you can try temp sender switch but my money on the stat.

Just had to do this on my S4 project, bloody annoying considering the car had a cambelt change less than 12 months ago

Why do ppl miss this out ffs!

Meant to have been a vag specialist garage as well!


Anyway

Good luck with all the work ahead
confusionhunter

Adz552 wrote:


Is that the picture of your manifold in your sig line
How much were they and where can I get them.

You would think wouldnt you?
But no! I did try using crappy XS power ones once upon a time many years ago full in the knowledge they would crack (but they didnt drop metal into the turbo) and that was on my old S4, I removed them before i sold it on! I should update my sig!!

These are my new exhaust bits:


The manifolds were 900 and I got the 3 inch downpipes and link pipes for an additional 500. = Im very please with the fit and quality, so thumbs up from me. From Niall: https://www.facebook.com/originfab/?fref=ts
davey thomas

confusionhunter wrote:
Adz552 wrote:


Is that the picture of your manifold in your sig line
How much were they and where can I get them.

You would think wouldnt you?
But no! I did try using crappy XS power ones once upon a time many years ago full in the knowledge they would crack (but they didnt drop metal into the turbo) and that was on my old S4, I removed them before i sold it on! I should update my sig!!

These are my new exhaust bits:


The manifolds were 900 and I got the 3 inch downpipes and link pipes for an additional 500. = Im very please with the fit and quality, so thumbs up from me. From Niall: https://www.facebook.com/originfab/?fref=ts
looks a cracking system that   I'm tempted with fitting that system when engine is out for rs6 turbo conversion
confusionhunter

Niall has the rs6 flanges too I believe
Burnzybubbles

confusionhunter wrote:
Niall has the rs6 flanges too I believe


Just out of curiosity, did the XS power manifolds crack?
Adz552

confusionhunter wrote:


These are my new exhaust bits:


The manifolds were 900 and I got the 3 inch downpipes and link pipes for an additional 500. = Im very please with the fit and quality, so thumbs up from me. From Niall: https://www.facebook.com/originfab/?fref=ts


Those look awesome
Are those k03 or k04
Aragorn

Adz552 wrote:

Those look awesome
Are those k03 or k04


Will fit either.
confusionhunter

Burnzybubbles wrote:


Just out of curiosity, did the XS power manifolds crack?


Had more crack than spiraling z lister celebrity! I tried to weld it all up again and they did crack again.... just moved the weak points really. Bit of a waste of time but got 3k miles out of em.

and yea those bits will for both ko3 or ko4, only bits that would be different might be the turbo intakes if you get them.
Burnzybubbles

to be expected as you said.
Adz552

Bit if an update if your interested

The rattle on the o/s is definitely the turbo actuator. Put a long screwdriver onthe actuator rod and gave is a listen and it was definitely coming from that but i guess ill hve a better idea after i remove the turbos

Fixed the leaking screen was bottle. Split o ring on the headlight washer pump outlet. New o ring and job done. Cost me nothing

Checked the front brakes and found out that they are actually 6pot brembos not 4 like i thought. Might sound like a stupid question but how do you tell the difference between 17z and 18z calipers

Brake light bulb warning light is pissing me right off tho. Check all the bulbs and found the side and brake bulb had a bit of corrosion on the contacts so I cleaned them up. Brake lights work perfectly. Still have the warning light on tho. Looks like someone has messed with the wiring going to the tail lights. Think its got to be that but ill have to check it out further another day

On a separate topic i bought some recaro seat bases and in the process of buying some s3 recaro black with blue alcantara centres to finish off the interior. Think they will look awesome when they are in
Burnzybubbles

If the calipers don't have 18zr or 18zl iirc on top of the caliper then they are 17z another sure fire way is to measure disc size as a 355mm disc will be 18z calipers plus only an 18"+ wheel will fit over the 18z set up.
Adz552

New fault i noticed this week lol
The dash display where the mpg and range is ssometimes scrolls on its own.
🤔
aidank1981

Niall does two manifold options, logs around 500 (similar to OEM but larger internal bore) with are proven to 550bhp or tubulars (above) that are 900 odd for 650bhp plus, depends on what your future power plans are!
Broonie

Adz552 wrote:
New fault i noticed this week lol
The dash display where the mpg and range is ssometimes scrolls on its own.
🤔


Mine also does this, if you figure out the problem let me know  
Adz552

Heater motor sorted 42 from euro car parts

New front and rear speakers to be fitted
Retro fit cruise control ordered
Blue alcantara recaro seats being modified to fit
Adz552

UPDATE
if anyone is interested lol

cruise control fitted just needs coding
recaros going in this weekend
alpine speakers fitted

new faults:
drivers window dropped and stiff going up? suspect regulator is goosed
when it was pissing it down the other week my alarm kept going off and car unlocking and opening the boot. ended up locking the car without arming the alarm.. any thoughts?
obviously got water ingress somewhere. seems ok for now tho.
no reverse lights. any ideas where the reverse lights switch is?
when i turn on full lock it skips as i turn. could this be because i have spacers on the front and a 18z brake conversion?

new plans:
-de cat straight through 3" exhaust. no boxes.
-stage one mrc map
have a pair of k03 turbos waiting to be sent off to the turbo unit when i get the time
-have a set of bilstein shocks and eibach springs waiting to go on.
-twin 10" subs in a custom built fiberglass boot enclosure with 4 and 2 channel amps and a power cap wrapped in blue alcantara
C J

I'd be checking your cl pump to see if it's wet. Osr corner of the car. Really common for getting wet and failing.

De cat exhaust and NO boxes?!?!?!
Adz552

straight through exhaust no cats no centre box and no back box just flexes

https://youtu.be/X9DDeIBWrdM

i want that burble, and crackle on gearchange
Adz552

seats in

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