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bboy82

Plumb50 build thread

Aaaaaaaaand another K04 S4 build begins!!



Lots of further updates to come.

S4 IRL

And lots of further bills to come as well, I'm just at the end of a long expensive K04 hybrid build.
S4twiggy

Good luck mate, a few of us know the feeling of DIY a K04 S4

Keep the pics and updates coming
ScottR

What have you got those axle stands under? :-s
Roberto Muggli

The triangular-ish plates where the subframe bolts are
bboy82

^ hell no! That's thin!

They're straddling the square recesses in the front subframe, just next to the gearbox mounts. They just look rediculously close together as they are for minibuses!

Oh yes, lots of bits to go on yet:

Weitec coilovers
JHM 330mm 2-piece from discs with 17Z calipers
JHM 300mm 2-piece rears using spaced FL S4 calipers
Wagner S4 IC's
LOBA 044
Dekka 630's
034 X34 intake
RS4 spec Carbon fibre Y-pipe

To name a few highlights.
bboy82

So, I thought id let you guys know where we are up to...!

Here she is, Plumb50's soon-to-be beast, lovingly named 'Vader', due to the forthcoming colour scheme.  

She's a bog standard, 2 previous owner, 2000 S4, with 88k on the clock. Full Audi service history, and straight as a die in every way.

Perfect for ripping apart then!



And here she is, parked up in her new temporary home. Hopefully she will be rolling out, and will be completed ahead of this years' Bugjam, July 20th.

As you can see, shes a little dirty, with the odd scuff here and there, but that will be taken care of once the dirty bit of the build is completed!



That's Plumb50 in the background, who some of you met at Buddies diner about 2 years ago, who sold his 850CSi after going in a blast in then Dests K04 S4. At this point in time he's wondering what the hell he's getting himself into!!!



So these are the parts that have arrived so far:







Some of you may have spotted the SSAC/XS-power decat downpipes. Well, he plans to use just the top section of them, the flexis, the V-band flanges, and maybe the gaskets!

Once the engine is pulled, maintenance work completed, tasty bits added, and everything is back together, it will be trailered off to Hauser Racing in Finedon, Northants, for a custom twin 3" to single 3.5" system, complete with cats, minimal silencing and exhaust tip in the style of the US Borla system.

So the engine bay is bog standard and grubby. Not for long!



For the numbers geeks out there!





Shiny.



Bumper off!! We nearly fell at the first hurdle though, as I couldn't remember how to get the bugger off the side hangers!! Just for the record, its pull straight down, then towards you to unhook the bottom clip, and then straight up and then out to unhook the top clip.



Lots of Carbon Fibre awesomeness will be calling this home shortly.


Condensor fan, PAS cooler, air damns and other guff coming out the way.



Axle stands under the front subframe.



Anyone need any of this!?!



Photos are better than relying on memory!!



If I take things apart, I like to put the fasteners back in. That way you don't lose them or get cofused as to which goes where....



Condensor out the way, supported by a bunjee chord off the bonnet hinge



Gearbox cooler lines cracked off and draining



When we did mine (Project: Deadline) we forgot to make a note of how the serpentine belt ran! Not this time...



Looks like a complete ball-ache just to change a starter motor!!




Thats as far as I can write up tonight as ive ran out of time, but we got much further...
Noggymike

Good work plumerdan  
dest

I knew it was only a matter of time
Looks like its going to be a beast
Roberto Muggli

+1 for correctly hanging the condenser to the bonnet hinge, I can tell you saw the video of the nogaro S4 engine removal, starring the dude with the tiny screwdriver in the shirt pocket
armageddon

is that ebay K04's?
BennyBoo

armageddon wrote:
is that ebay K04's?


Erm.. BBoy.. are they..?
The black hose on the top are the giveaway..
Plumb50

They are eBay snails why you ask chaps?
BennyBoo

I wouldn't be fitting them.. Sorry to possibly be the bearer of bad news, but they would most likely not last longer in the car than the total build time..

Either try and return them, or find some others..

It's the CHRA's that are the problem, china made and don't last long. The houses should/could be ok if you found some Borg Warner K04 CHRAs though..


Is there any chance you have a link or the price you paid..??
dest

Some horror stories about ebay turbos on here
One example
http://audisrs.com/about20348.html
Benson_JV

Good luck Chris, hope it goes smoothly. Will be keeping a close eye on this thread.
armageddon

If you use some BW k04 CHRA's or have a inspection/rebuild at a turbo shop it will be better
bboy82

By the sounds of it, they won't stand up to LC+ FS then...

I wouldn't want to risk it either.

Chris, the best course of action is to raise a dispute with Paypal against the seller where you bought them, and give Ben at The Turbo Unit a shout to see if he has any rebuilt genuine K04's for sale.



I'm going to re-upload the missing pics, as I've left your number plate in full view, unless you're cool with that?
S4twiggy

The dreaded Chinese turbos = FAIL

I'd be getting genuine tbh
bboy82

Well, I may as well keep going for now...

Although it is in pretty good nick, is it normal for the upper heat exchanger hose to rub on the metal water pipe that runs across the front of the engine? Can it be clocked round at all, so the pipe misses both of the hoses?



Wiggling the AC pump out is a bit tight, but no major issue.



So that's about as far as we can go with the front end in regards to pulling it, as we are waiting on the order from 034 to arrive directly from the states.



So next up was to remove the driveshafts, as we are doing brakes and coilovers at the same time...

The pinchbolt on this side was a bit of a bitch. Despite being soaked in WD, it sheared the nut first, and then the head. Luckily it came out with a bit of brute force and a parallel pin punch.



How it used to look:



Laptop's on a go slow, so cant upload more pics.
bboy82

S4 IRL wrote:
And lots of further bills to come as well, I'm just at the end of a long expensive K04 hybrid build.


Plumb's approach is to hit it, and hit it hard!
ScottR

Tip for next time... the aircon compressor will come out far easier if you remove the oil filter and heat exchanger out of the way first!  

I've got my 4th engine pull to look forward to in a couple of weeks.  I'm trying to knock Jimbo and Viper off the top spots for most DIY engine pulls on my own car!  
bboy82

ScottR wrote:
Tip for next time... the aircon compressor will come out far easier if you remove the oil filter and heat exchanger out of the way first!

I've got my 4th engine pull to look forward to in a couple of weeks. I'm trying to knock Jimbo and Viper off the top spots for most DIY engine pulls on my own car!


Haha! Yeah, my photo sequencing skills are a bit ropey... Apparently we removed the rad carrier panel earlier without undoing the gearbox cooler lines too!

Trying to out-pull those two is like trying to swim up Niagra falls...

Cue Roberto with a suitably humorous gif!!
ScottR

I forgot to undo my gearstick one time.  Was yanking the engine and moving the whole car on the axle stands, completely puzzled as to what it could be, as checking 'everywhere' around the engine with an inspection light, I couldn't see anything attached.  

(not to mention the first time I did an engine pull and forgot to undo the earth strap on the chassis leg... again yanking the engine with tremendous brute force to no avail!)
jimbo

ScottR wrote:
Tip for next time... the aircon compressor will come out far easier if you remove the oil filter and heat exchanger out of the way first!

I've got my 4th engine pull to look forward to in a couple of weeks. I'm trying to knock Jimbo and Viper off the top spots for most DIY engine pulls on my own car!


mines coming out again this week for some "different "turbos.  
S4Player

jimbo wrote:
ScottR wrote:
Tip for next time... the aircon compressor will come out far easier if you remove the oil filter and heat exchanger out of the way first!

I've got my 4th engine pull to look forward to in a couple of weeks. I'm trying to knock Jimbo and Viper off the top spots for most DIY engine pulls on my own car!


mines coming out again this week for some "different "turbos.


What now? I'm looking at others to
BennyBoo

Are you going TTE Mr Player..?
S4Player

BennyBoo wrote:
Are you going TTE Mr Player..?


Might be having some customisation done to my 750's is all 😎
jimbo

if your sticking with loba get the 700 wheels fitted, so far thats the best combination known to man.  
S4Player

jimbo wrote:
if your sticking with loba get the 700 wheels fitted, so far thats the best combination known to man.


Had the 700's before 👍 ! Looking at improving the 750's Jim! Sorry for hijacking your thread plumb
Lupe-81

Not trying to argue, but have all the LOBA believers turned to TTE believers now? What happened, 750's won't perform as is expected (Hulk is the only one)?
DavidT

Create a new thread for turbo debates please, let's leave this build thread to do it's thing.
mikey-s

DavidT wrote:
Create a new thread for turbo debates please, let's leave this build thread to do it's thing.


Agreed.  Theres a lot to talk about regarding the supposed dogs b*llocks 750's....
S4twiggy

Lupe-81 wrote:
Not trying to argue, but have all the LOBA believers turned to TTE believers now? What happened, 750's won't perform as is expected (Hulk is the only one)?

Simon now works for TTE lol
bboy82

So, by taking this.....



....and doing a bit of this to it,......



....and taking this.....



....and doing that to it.....



...that lot can go on there!!!



At this point in time, we took measurements for a set of sexy 3-piece custom rims, but they will have to wait due to K04-gate above.

Exhaust rear section removed, suspension turrets pulled out, and pathetic rear ARB and plastic drop links binned.



and that takes us up to the end of day 2.



Just in case anyone on here remembers me mentioning that Plumb has another tasty motor...









...and here are the editied pics I removed earlier:

Arrival in bog standard form...



...and parked up in her new temporary home:



Plumb50

I can't thank dan enough for his help in this mad mission. Big thanks to his dad for tolerating this build in his workshop. Still a long way to go though. Should be getting my genuine k04s early next week. And also the big order from 034
Benson_JV

Plumb50 wrote:
I can't thank dan enough for his help in this mad mission. Big thanks to his dad for tolerating this build in his workshop. Still a long way to go though. Should be getting my genuine k04s early next week. And also the big order from 034


Have you managed to return the knock-off K04's or will you be selling them on?
Plumb50

I brought the copy k04s ages ago. No chance of refund. Big I will stick them on eBay at some point. Or if anyone wants them welcome to make me an offer.
Benson_JV

Plumb50 wrote:
I brought the copy k04s ages ago. No chance of refund. Big I will stick them on eBay at some point. Or if anyone wants them welcome to make me an offer.

Fair enough, if you don't mind my asking what were they new?
Plumb50

The knock off we're around the 400 mark. Are you interested in them you could get them rebuilt to work.
Benson_JV

Plumb50 wrote:
The knock off we're around the 400 mark. Are you interested in them you could get them rebuilt to work.

I am, though I'm not so sure SWMBO is, I'll drop you a text though mate if I can talk her round.  
Plumb50

No problem benson give me a shout any time mate.
bboy82

Quick cheeky update...

On Thursday night we managed a few more hours on the build.

We managed to get all the original shocks and springs removed from their respective mounts, and cleaned everything up for rebuild.

The rear turrets were in really good nick, and only required a quick rub down with a wire brush, degrease and then spray up with hammerite.

Some of you may have noticed that we are reusing the suspension arms... They all seem to be in good order, and the car had no wallowy feel to it, knocks or irregular tyre wear. Yes, some may say it would be worth doing them while we are in there, and it is true to a degree, but the build budget simply wouldn't stretch that far, and other areas took priority.

Plus it's not that much of a ball ache to do it one corner at a time in a workshop as sweet as this...

This was the first time I/we had ever used some spring compressors...



This spring had a snapped coil at the base, but it passed the mot with flying colours...



Front struts were pretty clean...



And finally new coilovers ready to bolt back on once the engine and box go back in...



Coilovers were about 600 from Weitec directly if anyone's interested.

And since then, the 034 delivery has turned up too.

More updates coming soon.

jimbo

slacken the inner pinch bolts on the top and bottom arms when fitting the coilovers , get some axle stands under the outside of the bottom arms to replicate the car being sat back on its wheels then nip them up, stops the rubbers being twisted too much.  
Graham

Moved to Projects and Builds. Keep the updates coming  
bboy82

Excellent tip Jimbo! When I did mine, I just bolted the disc back on using the wheel bolts and a stack of M14 washers, and stuck a jack under the disc with a piece of wood on it. Probably safer doing it your way though...

Woohoo! I've always wanted a proper build thread in the projects and builds forum!

Shame it's not mine though!
bboy82

...and other good tip is to ensure you put the concave washer back on the rear upright upper securing bolt in the correct orientation.



Note how the concave face curves away from the upright, and thus provides clearance for the bush to pivot...

Get this wrong, and you'll have a nasty squeak!!
Marc R

How is the Weitec coilover kit compared to RS4 shocks and springs?
bboy82

Not sure yet!

Plumb's Golf is on Weitec's, and it is undeniably hard. But that's the way he wants Vader to be, and he's more than happy with the build quality (made by KW) vs price.

Suspension feel is a very personal taste (a bit like exhaust sounds), but once it's done, I should be able to give a pretty good comparison to my -40mm Eibach spring and stock shock setup.
Plumb50

I've gone for the weitec coil overs because they do perform well, yes they are hard. But this is not going to be a daily driver it's just another toy my G60 golf has got one of the first generation weitec's on. So the these latest ones might feel completely different.
bboy82

Update time!!

Chris took delivery of some parts the other day, and brought them over this morning...



In no particular order:



Belts, phenolic intake spacers, after-run mod coolant switch, assorted jub clips for the intake tract, 034 poly snub mount, 034 density lint motor mounts, turbo hotside fitting kit, JHM trio package



034 Motorsport silicone S4 intercooler hose kit



SPEC stage 3+ clutch kit



034 Motorsports K04 replica intake pipes and 034 density gearbox mounts



Metal waterpump



S4 spec Wagner SMIC's, and cam chain tensioner gaskets



Wagner Carbon Fibre shrouds, 034 Motorsports Carbon Fibre RS4 replica Y-pipe, new RS4 MAF, 034 Motorposrts silicone accordion hose, intake hose and coupler for X34 intake.



034 Motorsports Bi-pipes with silicone TBB to match, 034 Motorsports silicone 710N 90 deg hoses, 034 Motorsports silicone F-hose, 034 rear anti roll bar, new cam seals, tensioner for serpentine belt and other miscellaneous parts!



And finally, freshly rebuilt PJK04's, as supplied by Ben @ The Turbo Unit.



Spot the differences...

So, resuming from where we got up to, last Thursday night I disconnected the ECU, unclipped the loom, and disconnected the vacuum reservoir at the tee-piece by the N249. This thursday, we removed the prop heatshield and unbolted the prop from the gearbox. I didn't have my camera handy for that, but its pretty straight forward...

As you can seem this S4 is running a D-box ECU...




So, today we put the hoist into place, and took up some strain, then undid the motor and gearbox mounts...




Plumb then took it upon himself to spray the rear callipers so they match the fronts...



As he was doing that, I drained the PAS cooler...



We stuck a trolley jack under the gearbox at the back to help keep her level, and later used it to raise her up as the downpipe mounting hangers went over the subframe cross brace.



But before it could go anywhere, we had to batter the crap out of the prop drive flange, as it had seized to the gearbox outlet flange!! I started with a soft leather mallet, but couldn't get a decent contact without risking denting the oil seal retainer...



But with that bent back on itself, I could get in there with a decent copper mallet and give it a good smack!



With that separated, it would come forward a bit more, until the gearbox oil cooler pipes fouled on the alternator wiring clip. We were getting close in a couple of places, so instead of just raising the motor higher, I opted to get the clipout of the way, hence the reminder pic of where it goes!!



With that done, it inched out until I could get at the clutch slave cylinder to disconnect it... Its out of focus, and below the Bank 2 Lambda in this pic, but you get the idea!



You can just about see how ive capped the clutch line off using a bit of 1/4" hose, an M6 bolt and 2 jub clips in the backgroundof this pic...




Then it came out far enough to disconnect the heater matrix hoses, and pull them out from the scuttle tray... They were crossed over before we removed them, is this normal? Does it matter?





Next, I disconnected the PAS return line (marked in blue in this pic)



By now it was getting close...



But we learnt the importance of slinging it level!!



But luckily, the downpipes act as pretty good handlebars to guide the lump out from underneath without your hands being anywhere near a potential nasty pinch.

She was grubby, but unmolested and original, until we got our hands on her anyway...!



...and out she comes! It really is that easy...



Note the wooden topped trolley in the background... such a handy thing to have in a workshop.



Some cleaning to do... any tips Twiggy?



If anyone gets a nasty oily smell in the cabin every now and again, this is your most likely cuprit; Leaking cam cover gaskets.



Its been leaking for a while by the looks of it!



Next up was to remove the turbos while it was at am easy working height. All was going well until we got to this rather average looking bolt on the exhaust inlet of the turbo...



It was just at the wrong angle to get on with an allen key, and is just too tight against the manifold to get a 1/2" drive socket on. We tried cutting down an 8mm allen key, and inserting it into an 8mm socket, but that just rounded the head.

So one of these came out to play...!



And with a little bit of jiggling and wiggling, she came off a treat!



This side was a piece of piss in comparison...



While Plumb was having a nightmare with the drivers side turbo, I began the cleanup process...



Ive never noticed this before:



I can only presume that's German for 'firing order'!!

Then finally, we split the gearbox and called it a day!!



Not a bad effort I didn't think.

More to come soon.

Graham

Good update  
mikey-s

Well done for having the patience to stop to take photos!   Most of the time I'm on a mission and think to myself "sod the photos, lets just get this sh*t done"..
bboy82

mikey-s wrote:
Well done for having the patience to stop to take photos! Most of the time I'm on a mission and think to myself "sod the photos, lets just get this sh*t done"..


Haha! Yeah, with my car I'm usually a bit more like a bull in a china shop, but it's a bit different when it's someone else's pile of parts!!!

All the pics, notes, tags and bit boxes we can muster still isn't enought to stop the occasional WTF?!?! moments...

This is my second ever engine pull to date, and certainly the furthest I've ever stripped a car in one go!!

Bobby9

bboy can you let me know the price of the Spec clutch and where you got it from please? Does it also go with the OEM DMF if preferred?
Also can you keep me updated on how it handles the power? My Loba clutch has slipped since day one but is driveable until I get the dosh together for a replacement and fitting.
bboy82

Yeah, no worries bobby, will do.

The SPEC clutch came from 034, and is the one listed as their stage 3+ kit. Plumbs order came in one big shipment, so the shipping and import taxes were shared amongst all the 034 parts.

Might be best speaking to one of the 034 dealers on here for a one-off item price.

Dan.
Noggymike

Great work/update Dan

Nice to see you have a welcome distraction now, other than working on the house
ScottR

What degreaser are you using to clean up that sump? I want mine that shiny next week!
FalleN

Lovely and well documented build! Keep the good work up.
Plumb50

For scottR I'm using a degreaser call "gunk" it's good stuff mate.
ScottR

Splendid, they sell it in Halfrauds so I'll make sure I pop in for some.
bboy82

Well, just for neatness, I'd better update this thread...

My clutch decided it would give up the ghost on Sunday, and I desperately needed it back on the road ASAP.

Fortunately (?), I was booked off work all this week as it's my lads first birthday, and Plumb's build isn't quite ready for the clutch to be fitted, so I robbed his clutch kit and fitted it to mine!!

Check out the thread 'Gearbox Removal' in the B5 section for further details.

I'm going to order a replacement clutch kit as soon as I finish this post...
bboy82

I just picked up a diff outlet seal for Vader, along with a few other parts from Huntingdon AUDI for the build.

I'll be doing this, and starting to rebuild the rear end tomorrow night with a bit of luck.
bboy82

We got a little bit more done last night...

Scrub it, you dirty little man!!!



Next project for Chris is cleaning my workshop floor!!!



Diff oil coming out...



The offending outlet seal lurks beneath!



To remove the hub bolt, I support the hub, and then attack it with a 3/4" windy gun. They are 14mm iirc...



With the shaft removed, you can get access to the flange retaining bolt. Its a 6mm allen bolt, and you need to hold the flange to undo it. I used an oil filter strap wrench.... Once the flange is removed, its just a case of prying out the old seal with a bar or screwdriver.

...and there she be!!



To fit the new one, I just used a 3/4" socket which was slightly smaller O/D than the seal, and tapped it in gently, ensuring it went in straight, until the front face of the seal was aligned with the edge of the internal bevel.

Next up was to actually start modding!!!

Rear subframe, before...



Jumping to the other side, this is how the strengthening brackets from 034 sit once installed.



Note: The 10mm through holes in the subframe were a bit fluffed up, so they needed clearancing with a 10mm drill bit.



OOooooooooooooooshhh!!



....and back to pissing about!!



Hmmmmm..... top bolt for the ARB bracket looks a bit tight on loose assembly...



Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeese!



Yes, the top ARB bolt was soooo tight to the fuel tank, I had to butcher a 13mm spanner!

Cut down the spanner.
Grind the head of the spanner, so the jaws of the head are thinner.
Bend a kink in the shaft of the spanner.

And then use the strap of my filter wrench to get purchase on the spanner, as you can barely get your fingers in there!!!

Piss take or what!?!



And finally, all bolted up with RS2 droplinks.



Next, rear brakes and coilovers!!!

Noggymike

Loooove it Dan




































PS


You look good in Hi Vis Orange

x
bboy82

^ haha!

Orange is such a difficult colour to wear too...

On the plus side, ovies hide my love handles a treat!!
Plumb50

And your fake tan!
bboy82

I do look like I've been tango'd, but it's genuine!
bboy82

Finished work early today, so I fitted this beast...



Another job jobbed!
ScottR

Winner!
bboy82

Yeah man!!

We are getting there, slowly but surely...

Thursday night should see another jump forward with a little luck.

We're not quite at the injector swap point yet though.
Noggymike

bboy82 wrote:
Yeah man!!

We are getting there, slowly but surely...

Thursday night should see another jump forward with a little luck.

We're not quite at the injector swap point yet though.


Keep that Vaseline in a locked drawer Dan FFS
bboy82

Ooooooooooh, not sure I can..... It's so slippery!
Marc R

Good work there!  keep it up!
ScottR

Looking at the pics of your troubles with the top ARB bolt, would you not have been easier to remove the two bolts holding the two parts of the reinforcing bracket to allow you to fit the actual ARB bracket to it a few inches lower before lifting it back up and reattaching it?
stuartx

I have to say the 034 ARB brackets are a nightmare to fit, I ended up grinding some off mine to get a better fit!!!
bboy82

Sadly not Scott, as the top ARB bush bracket bolt goes through the vertical plate on the subframe, and then screws into a tapped thread in the main C shaped part of the bracket. This effectively sandwiches the subframe plate between the bush bracket and the C, meaning you can't nip it up first, and then slide it upwards into place.

It's a bit of a fiddly tw*t, but not impossible!
HEKTOR

I found it fiddly but that was it. No modifications needed, just a little leverage applied to the fuel tank and patience when locating/tightening the bolt.

Glad its on... it is impressive how well the arb performs.
stuartx

HEKTOR wrote:
I found it fiddly but that was it. No modifications needed, just a little leverage applied to the fuel tank and patience when locating/tightening the bolt.

Glad its on... it is impressive how well the arb performs.


bboy82

Well, I finally managed to do a bit more tonight!!

Handbrake cables have been renewed using longer RS4 items, replacement upper sump has been sourced and is now clean and ready to go on, and rear end rebuild is now complete!!

Pics to follow...
bboy82

To remove the handbrake cables, first disconnect the cables from the calliper mechanisms, then remove the securing washers, and pull the cables out of the callipers completely.

Then pull up the handbrake to give yourself lots of slack to get the lugs out of the handbrake mechanism.



You can just see the round lug of the cable through the elliptical hole in its retainer. The retainers pivot from side to side. When removing the drivers side cable, push it towards the drivers door, and vice-versa, to allow the lug to come out of the retainer. I then got Plumb to hold the lugs and retainers in the correct positions whilst I got under the car and pulled them out... With the prop heat shield out of the way, this is what you see:



The cables are only secured into the body at this end with an internal spring clip, so they just pull out. I had to use a screwdriver on one though, as it is difficult to get your hand in there to get hold of them!

The next fiddly bit was to pull the right hand cable out from above the diff carrier. The gap isn't quite big enough for it to just pull through, so you need to back off the two T50 bolts that hold the diff carrier in place:



The next tricky part is pulling the cables through the wishbones. The black retaining guide is released from the wishbone by compressing two locking tabs which are located in a to y gap between the wishbone and the brake hose mounting point on the wishbone. You can just about get some snipe nosed pliers in there to compress the tabs, and tap them reareards with a hammer with the other hand.

Installing the new cables is the reverse of removal.

Lots of slack now!



That's all the pics I took, so I hope they are of interest or use.

As a side note, the handbrake cables can be reset from full adjustment by removing the circlip, winding the outer housing over the top of the circlip groove all the way, pushing the sheathes together again, and winding the outer housing back and replacing the circlip. Plumbobs were seized solid, which is why we couldn't do it.

bboy82

More progress!

Our main task for last night was to fit the replacement upper sump, and to start replacing the cam cover gaskets...

I started off by removing the lower sump..



Not too bad really. I've removed the oil feed and return pipes in this shot..




Once the pipes are out of the way, the upper sump clears the oil sump, and can be gently teased off the dowell pins with a soft hammer..



I didn't know that the S4 uses the standard 2.8 crank. Pretty impressive what it can handle to be honest!! The light in this pic was pretty rubbish, it's a lot cleaner in reality than it looks!!



While I was doing the above, Plumb was removing the cam covers...





These pics look a lot darker too! It's always a relief to open up cam covers and not be greeted by any nasty surprises!

By then, I'd cleaned up the block and replacement sump mating faces using rag and brake/clutch cleaner. These have to be uber clean! I would also recommend cleaning up all of the bolt heads before applying the sealant, as the proper AUDI stuff goes off in a couple of minutes! I didn't have time to take any pics at this point, but here is one of it finished...



All of the orings and seals were like new on this motor, so I just cleaned everything up, greased them and popped them back together. Some of the recesses on the replacement sump were a bit corroded on the air side of the seal, but nothing that couldn't be cured with a gentle rub down with fine emery.

One thing we did notice was that the stem for the heat exchanger on the facelift sump was 9mm shorter than the PFL version. This ties in with what ScottR and Aragorn were saying about revised versions of the heat exchanger pipework and thus the difficulty fitting an oil cooler to Scott's S4. The thread is exactly the same between PFL and FL, so you just need to swap them over.

By this time Plumb had removed the cam covers, and tarted them up a bit with some heat resistant matte black paint. Keeping the black theme going nicely.
bboy82

Phone went into power save!!
bboy82

And now photobucket seems to be down.... Yay.
bboy82

And now photobucket seems to be down.... Yay.
bboy82

Well, I'm not really sure what happened there, but never mind...

This was supposed to be the first pic:



And this was the third...



And this was the last!



Plus we identified where the cam chain tensioner and half moon gaskets live, and exactly what we need to complete the job.






More updates next week, and hopefully they will go smoothly!
Noggymike

Nice to see things are progressing again
bboy82

Tell me about it mate!

We've got a long weekend coming up, so hopefully there will be some real progress to report soon!

bboy82

Tell me about it mate!

We've got a long weekend coming up, so hopefully there will be some real progress to report soon!

Noggymike

bboy82 wrote:
Tell me about it mate!

We've got a long weekend coming up, so hopefully there will be some real progress to report soon!




Sounds interesting Dan
BNBboyo

great in-depth thread on what's occurring... subscribed.
bboy82

Cheers Adam, good to have you aboard!!

bboy82

Well, there's been a bit of progress!

These arrived through the post..



Sourced from eBay, for less than a tenner each delivered.

I then did the cam tensioner and cam cover gaskets, fitting the painted covers.

I didn't have my phone for this, but you get the idea!


So, using my cam locking bar that I bought for my build and the crank locking pin, I set about doing the full cambelt, water pump, thermostat, tensioners, rollers etc service.




After we did that, I fitted the phenolic spacer gaskets, and checked the after run pump. That was fine thankfully. The phenolic spacers come with longer bolts and 4 gaskets, which is everything you need.



While I was doing that, Plumb was fitting the new PJK04's...

I then removed the fuel rail for cleaning and checked the one way velves



While I was doing that, Plumb painted the TB.



And the inlet manifold...




I then removed the old injectors, and prepped the new EV14 550's.
You need to replace the lower orings, and give them a very light smear of Vaseline. By using the supplied clip on plug adaptors, they are a direct replacement on the S4.



Fitted to the fuel rail and ready to rock...



Fully rebuilt, including silicone F-hose and TBB, and ready to come off the stand...



The dreadded mating of gearbox and engine!!





It's together again!!!!!

New 034 street density motor mounts, and latest version XS-Power 3" DP's going on...





Fast forward a bit of sweating and swearing, and she's in!!




Not bad for 2 days work!
FalleN

Lovely job! Was it hard to do the belt and such? Or is there almost nothing that can go wrong with the lock bar and crank pin?
Cheempeej

Top work

Love day builds
bboy82

FalleN wrote:
Lovely job! Was it hard to do the belt and such? Or is there almost nothing that can go wrong with the lock bar and crank pin?


I'm no master tech, but to my understanding, so long as the no 1 cylinder (nearest the UK driver) is at TDC and the cams are in the correct position (largest hole in the tab washer facing inwards, then that's in the correct timing position and the bar and pin can be fitted.  

There is an indicator on the crank pulley which lines up with an arrow on one of the covers, but there is so much play in how the cover bolts up, as well as play in the crank pulley itself, that I wouldn't trust it personally.

Plus you need to remove the pulley and cover to get the belt off anyway!

Once the pin is in, you can cut the belt off, swap everything over, and release the cam pulleys from their tapers. You need to remove the locking bar to get the old belt off, so don't panic too much if the cams move around.

So long as you put the new tensioner, lever arm, rollers, belt etc on, then put the locking bar back on, then gently finger tighten the cam bolts so the pulleys can just turn, pull the pin on the tensioner out, allow the cam pulleys to turn slightly to take up the slack, and then tighten the cam bolts fully last withe the bar still on, then you should be fine!!

It sounds a lot worse than it is though!

I then rotated the engine clockwise for three full firing cycles, by turning the crank with a 24mm socket on the splines, and the crank pin and locking bar slipped in perfectly.

However, I'll only be truely happy once it's running and timing is checked in VAGCOM.

FalleN

Does sound a lot harder that it might be yeah.
First time doing my 1.8t belt was a lot easier than I thought it would ever be.
But this S4 thing is a lot bigger and different compared to a 1.8 haha.

Thanks for the explanation.
bboy82

Got a bit more done last night!

We started off by fitting the Wagner SMIC's using 034 Motorsports silicone hoses.
The Wagner's didn't come with any fixtures (not sure if they're supposed to?), so we had to reuse the original mountings.

You need to cut away a lot of the tab that the rad carrier bolts to on the wings...



And it's also very tight behind the front chassis legs, so I clearanced them as well.



All the bare metal edges were painted black again, any scuffs touched up, and potential rubbing points were protected with splayed open 3/8" compressed air hose; black of course!!

Then we cut the pins off the old intercoolers by drilling out the top rivet...



Made some new washers by grinding down some M6 washers...





and then reassembled the bushes, pins and washers with the intercoolers in place, and riveted them all together...





And this shows them both fully mounted, with new serpentine belt on, viscous fan offered up, poly snub mount on (we used a wide jaw vice to fit it, stuff struggling!) and the 034 Motorsport bi-pipes going on:



Yes, I know the header tank is manky!! A new one will be fitted soon!

More updates to come...

BHZ661

great work so far  
bboy82

When I say more to come, its really just a few more pics!!

It suddenly dawned on me at the end of the night, that I had my good camera with me!!

We actually got this far!





Just a few more hoses to replace, and bits to go on before the front end can be re-mounted!

Getting nervous, as we are close to firing it up for the first time since march!!
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