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Escy

Porsche Boxster S 986 - Audi 2.7 Bi-Turbo engine swap

I thought i'd start a project thread. I recently bought a Porsche Boxster S with the intention to swap the engine for an Audi 2.7 bi-turbo engine.

My plan is for it to look pretty much standard. I'm sure that'll be harder than it sounds when it comes to things like intercooler/charge cooler rad placement and wiring integration.

Here are a couple of photos of the Porsche I took on the way home from picking it up. It's really nice, I haven't driven one before, was quite impressed to the point where I reconsidered my plans. I'd already bought my donor Audi A6  I like the challenge so i'm going to plow ahead.




I spotted my donor car on ebay, an Audi A6 in manual flavour. The miles were pretty reasonable at 106k (the Boxster is on 93k). It'd been sat for a couple of years and I bought it unseen and just hoped for the best. Even though it's covered in filth and full of cobwebs you can tell it's a good car. It's only had one owner since 2001. The engine runs great and is whisper quiet. Check out the front wing, some impressive rust. It came with a free old man hat on the parcel shelf, happy days.



Human Joist

Be a good set up when done mate.
Escy

I've not really made a start on it yet, have been too busy doing other projects. I'm going to start stripping the A6 soon.

I decided to buy a 2.4 v6 to use it's large port cylinder heads. Currenty stripping the engine down, I have some S4 valves so I can build up the heads and leave them in the garage until i'm ready to fit them. I won't mess about with things like this until I know the V6 is going to fit the Porsche.

ScottR

Cool, always enjoy a wacky project!
RS666

WOW I keep dreaming bout doing this but with a Subaru Impreza STI engine!

Watching with interest  
Lewis

Nice hat.
marc1

Wow, this will be an awesome project.  The Boxster is a fantastic drive, very direct, light and amazing steering feel.  I think they go pretty well in stock form, so should be fairly ballistic with a tuned 2.7tt.  'Hats off' to you for attempting this.
Paul

Cool project.

Hat may come in useful for sunny days in the Boxster.
Lewis

I had a 986 boxster S around 10 years back it really was a great handling car and very manageable on the limit, however I felt it was under powered at times so I traded in for a 996 turbo which was totally different much faster but lacked the go kart feel of the boxster, the chassis and engine combination you have here will be very well matched indeed good luck with the build and be prepared for sore backs and bleeding knuckles as the boxster engine is a pan in the ass to access.  
Escy

I hope it will be well matched, from driving the Boxster I think the chassis is capable of handling a lot more power, it feels very composed.
Escy

Time for an update, it's been months. I took what was needed from the A6 and got it collected for parts. I barely stripped it, there wasn't much interest which I thought strange.


My aspirations for the engine spec are ever increasing. I would probably be perfectly happy with a tuned K03 set-up but if i'm going to the hassle of fitting this engine in the Boxster I may as well make the most of it. The plan is 500bhp+ now, either on RS6 turbo's or a big single, haven't decided yet.

I picked up a 2.4 n/a engine to use it's big port cylinder heads. I stripped them off and it's all in nice and clean inside, was told it'd done 70k and it looks it.  


I offered up the Audi V6 spacer plate to the original Boxster S transaxle. (in the picture)The starter location was in the wrong place, some bolt hole lined up, some didn't, it also didn't have the flywheel sensor mounting. It was probably workable but lots to overcome and if it can't take the power and blows up i'd have to do all modifications again. The easy way would be to use a 5 speed 986 transaxle, it's an Audi unit so everything would fit fine. Putting a weaker 5 speed in felt like a downgrade so I decided to purchase a later Boxster 987 3.2 transaxle and associated parts. This will provide a few headaches later on.


The car was running out of an MOT and I didn't want to complete a project like this without one. Once I sorted that out, I was ready to pull out the original engine, this was done around the Christmas period. This is a photo of me getting the engine out, lifting the car up with an engine hoist isn't exactly how it's described in the workshop manual!


With that out of the way, i've offered up the 2.7. It fits lovely inside the engine bay. The turbo's foul but i've got stainless manifolds i'll be modifying. The driveshafts are further forward and are causing me clearance issues so i'll be modifying the alloy suspension carriers to rectify that. Here are a few pictures of it sitting in the bay. Need to sort out the driveshafts and I can start making up my engine and transaxle mounts. I'll be running the inlet manifold backwards and will need to modify the throttle body angle as it'll foul the engine cover

terracota

haha 2.7tt in ass:P
cool project mate
Noggymike

Serious commitment to a project Tom

Great work so far, I'm sure like me, plenty will be watching this thread
Challice

Looking good
n33yo84

2.7T + porsche perfect match  
Escy

Cheers guys, i'm getting excited now things are moving along

I've made a decision on the turbo. Have gone for a big single Holset. It's a hybrid, HX40 compressor and HX35 12cm (ar 0.85) turbine. I've read a lot of good things about Holsets, they apparently spool faster than the equivalent Garrett, It's capable of 650+bhp. I wanted a turbo with a bit of room left in it so i'm not hammering it past it's peak efficiency to make decent power and having temperature control problems.

When it turns up i'll get a few photos.
jockthedog

Hmmmm like the idea and admire your ambition but what is this gonna do to the weight distribution in the car?
Isn't this lump much heavier and that weight is higher up too?
Escy

I don't think there will be that much difference in weight, the Boxster engine is a big heavy lump. It'd be surprised if there is a noticeable difference in handling. I have to say, i'm not really concerned anyway. The chassis is such a good starting point. I've ordered some coilovers for it today which have adjustable damping, i'll be fitting an LSD also, I think it'll be able to out handle a standard Boxster S once it's all set-up.
BennyBoo

jockthedog wrote:
Hmmmm like the idea and admire your ambition but what is this gonna do to the weight distribution in the car?
Isn't this lump much heavier and that weight is higher up too?


I bet they weight in about the same.. The boxer is a 2.7 6 cylinder too..?

What does the S4 engine weigh in at, 200kg?
Escy

Mine was a 3.2. It's wider and longer than the V6. I can't see the fact the cylinder heads being a foot higher up will make a huge difference although  I'm adding extra weight with the turbo and charge cooler systems.
Kent

Its splitting hairs when one car will be able to smash the absolute pony out of the other when changing velocity
Escy

The Holset arrived. That's a K03 next to it. It's pretty big but it'll fit where I want (near the alternator)

Scottieb5s4

Liking the build this will be cool. I'm swapping my current single turbo to a holset too same as yours had it sat collecting dust not had chance to get it fitted yet need to swap the vband on the down pipe
Escy

I had a quick look at your pictures, the single turbo looks good. If you get the Holset fitted before I finish my build, it'd be interested in how it performs.
CliveH

Wow!

When I read the first post, I thought there's no way that this will work out, but hats off to you this is some project!

My only question now, having seen how far you've got, is how and where are you going to locate the sizeable intercooler needed to deal with this setup?
Escy

I'm going to run a charge cooler setup. I will mount the core in the engine bay on the opposite side to the turbo. I'll run the radiator in the front bumper. The Boxster has 3 rads so I might use the center one for the charge cooler and see how the engine temperatures are. If the 2 side radiators can't cope i'll see about adding an extra radiator. Some 911's and the later Cayman S's don't have the extra center radiator, i'm not sure why the Boxster S does.  I'll run the water tank (quite a large one to add capacity to the system) in the boot. I've not decided if it'll be the front or rear boot yet.
Scottieb5s4

Escy wrote:
I had a quick look at your pictures, the single turbo looks good. If you get the Holset fitted before I finish my build, it'd be interested in how it performs.

Should be going on within the next month hopefully. My current turbo hits full boost by about 3800rpm and the holset should have less lag than the one that's on I'll update on how it performs can only be better
Escy

Little update.

This weekend I finished up the engine mounts, the engine is now bolted into the chassis. I'm using the standard Boxster engine mount locations, i've cut and re-welded the gearbox mounts (as the gearbox has moved forward an inch) and made a cradle that bolts to the original V6 engine mount brackets and it ties into the front of the engine where the original snub mount was bolted. The standard Boxster mount then bolts to this cradle. The picture shows it mounted to my 2.4 block that I bought for the cylinder heads, it came in handy for mocking this up. 



I was having some problems with driveshaft clearance, with the wheels off the ground the driveshafts were resting on the lower suspension arm mount. I knew coilovers would solve this as they have a shorter body so the hub wouldn't drop as much. I hadn't originally planned on coilovers, it was something i'd look at once it was up running so I was mindful about blowing the budget and leaving myself short in other areas. There aren't many options around for Boxsters that's reasonable money. You got the cheap and nasty £350 ones on ebay otherwise it's over £1000 for a set. After trawling the internet I came across some made by Yellow Speed Racing, i'm also into my Jap cars and knew their coilovers have a good reputation. They have adjustable top mounts and adjustable damping which will help me get it set-up nicely since i'm messing with the weight distribution. They seemed like very good value for £700 so that's what I went with. 

I fitted a rear shock this evening to have a quick look, i've now got loads more space under the driveshaft which has solved the clearance issue and also given me tons more space for running the exhaust which is going to be very useful.





Kent

loving this
coullstar

This is going to be a bit of an animal.  Best thing is the noise will be there right behind you. Are you mapping it?  Some progressive boost would be good.

My 996 only has two rads at the front (albeit the turbo ones so don't know if there bigger) but I have seen people adding a third or there from factory on tip models I think.

Do you have AC condensors?  Just thinking you could maybe ditch the AC system which would then expose the rads a bit more to airflow then you can use the front as a chargecooler.  If it gets hot put the roof down!!
Escy

I can't wait to hear it, they are a great sounding engine.

Me and a mate are going to map it.

I'm in 2 minds about the air conditioning, i'd like the keep it but like you say, it'll impact on the engine radiators efficency. I need to replace an a/c pipe that runs the length of the car as it's been dented, plus there was no gas in the system when I pulled the old engine so it might be an issue somewhere else. It probably makes sense to ditch it, like you say, I can always put the roof down.
Escy

I'm going to make a start on the exhaust this weekend. I've decided on the position for the turbo, i'm going to bolt it to the back of the gearbox.




I've bought a load of bits. I'm wanting to be 550bhp give or take. With the turbo being far back in the exhaust system I wasn't sure exactly what size pipe work to go with. I've decided on 2.25" from the manifolds to the Y-piece (which i'll be cutting out of that Skyline twin downpipe). That then becomes 3" feeding into the turbo. It's a bit of a punt size wise as I realise the bigger the bore is pre-turbo the longer the pipe run is, the more energy is lost. I plan the wrap the whole system to keep to try and improve this. Opinions are welcome.

The exhaust housing has a 2.5" v-band and i'm stepping that up to a 3.5" system for the rest of the exhaust. I'll be running an external wastegate that vents to the atmosphere rather than back into the exhaust so that might end up making the post turbo exhaust equivalent to a 4" system.  I'm half considering  just having a 90 degree bend after the turbo and it  coming straight out of the middle of the bumper (in the standard Boxster location). It might be really loud as there wouldn't be any silencers in the system but the turbo itself might go someway to acting like a silencer. My other option would be to add a silencer and have the exhaust exit offset (on the drivers side) how most cars are, I prefer this as I think the center exit on the Boxster looks toss, especially if I run a single pipe rather than a dual, but i'd be left with a cutout in the bumper for the center exit which might look silly.


I might make a seperate thread for this as I don't know how many people will look in here. My compressor inlet is 4", can I use a 4" maf housing and adjust the ECU to read it correctly?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-OD-10...item3cf73032f7:g:H3kAAOxy3cJTfjTL
buzzard

That's one big momma of a turbo
Great project and really enjoying the build thread
coullstar

There is a guy over on 911uk forum that's building a rallycross boxster with a 2.7t but he is keeping the TT set up.
Escy

Thanks Buzzard, i'm also enjoying the build.

Coullstar, i'm following that build on Facebook. It's a cool build. I initially thought it'd be a useful resource for my project and I was speaking to Rob about it but our builds are so different, it's literally just the engine choice that's the same, nothing else is.
Escy



This weekend I started the exhaust. I also made a bracket to mount the turbo off the back of the transaxle. My original plan was to have the car looking completely standard but it's not going to be easy to keep the center exit exhaust if I want to run a silencer, which I do. To be honest, I think the center exit on a Boxster looks crap anyway, i'm considering cutting the center of bumper away like has been done on this MX5. I'd then have a silencer from the back of the turbo with the pipe exiting at the driver's side of the bumper Opinions on this idea are welcome.

Noggymike

That sounds doable, would you just leave the cut out exposed or use a diff kind of material fill the void taking into account the new exhaust position?
ScottR

They are far too loud with no exhaust, the turbo does little to silence. And what would be the point of making it look standard if it sounds like a monster truck!

Loving the work so far.
Escy

Thanks. Someone suggested a good idea on another forum which I think i'll do. Leave the bumper alone, have a silencer hidden behind it with the tailpipe turned down and just have fake twin pipes coming out of the center in the standard Boxster location to keep the original looks. Seems obvious now I think about it. 
Kent

but what about flames? I couldn't have some fake tailpipes on show. They'd have to do something on such a little beast!
Kent

cut the centre recess out and move it over to where your tailpipes need to end up and use the cutout to fill the centre section.

I know it would change the appearance from factory but it doesn't need to be ott. If you keep the factory recess and tailpipes it will look oem.
Escy

It's true that, i'll lose some of the fun of owning this type of car with the exhaust hidden and it'd probably melt/set fire to the bumper also. I hadn't thought about moving the recess that might work.

If I can find a silencer that has the inlet and outlet the same side that's 3.5"/89mm bore I wouldn't need to mess about and could keep it centre exit like standard. The options are shit once you go past 3" and I haven't seen anything yet.
Kent

somebody should be able to make you one dude.

Speak to Niall on here. His work is top in my opinion and he's a sound guy also...

http://audisrs.com/forum96.php
Escy

I had a quote from someone local to make me a backbox and it's too much but i've now got a plan which should work out nice.

I made some good progress this weekend. I bought a load of exhaust parts and got started on the exhaust. I modified the exhaust manifolds with 90 degree bends (forgot to take pictures) and then made the downpipes. It was a bit of a challenge to fit two 2.25" pipes down one side of the car as space is limited, it took me a while working everything out. I'm happy with how it's turned out, especially considering all the cuts were made with 4.5" angle grinder so it was murder trying to get the angles right and the cuts straight so I had tight fits. I still need to add lambda bosses and the external wastegate pipe, then i'll heatwrap it. I think this section of the exhaust will prove to be the hardest fabrication of the whole build so I feel like it's all downhill now
 

gtphanta

coullstar wrote:
There is a guy over on 911uk forum that's building a rallycross boxster with a 2.7t but he is keeping the TT set up.


You have a link to that?
coullstar

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=104869
mrgristle

Awesome project fella. Nice to see someone trying something different .

Mods: surely worthy of the projects and builds section?
DavidT

mrgristle wrote:
Awesome project fella. Nice to see someone trying something different .

Mods: surely worthy of the projects and builds section?


Yes, happy to move it if that's what the OP wants?
Escy

I originally wanted to post it in the projects section but it didn't allow me so i'd be happy for it to be moved.  

Here is a picture of the exhaust manifolds. I bought a pair of ebay ones and modified them to be 2.25"



I picked up some 18" 997 Carrera alloys as they were really cheap. They are slightly wider 8" vs 7.5" at the front and 10" vs 9" at the rear but will require spacers to fit the rears so I might not be able to get much extra tyre width on them. I think the weight is about the same. Not sure which I prefer so i'm interested in opinions





ScottR

The eBay manifolds have a bad reputation for cracking.  
Escy

Yeah, I know, all stainless steel manifolds do. Mine aren't supporting the weight of a turbo so it shouldn't be a problem, plus they are easily removable on my car.
Graham

Move to P&B.

Keep the updates coming, great project.
Kent

loving this
adzn3k

I was just talking to my neighbour about this very project as he'd sold his boxster.

I'm interested to see how the turbo does on the 2.7
CliveH

My vote would be the 997 wheels
lewiswlawrence

Escy wrote:


Not sure which I prefer so i'm interested in opinions



I like the one on the left in this pic.
mrgristle

lewiswlawrence wrote:


I like the one on the left in this pic.


+1
Escy

I've gone with the 5 spokes, I like them, they are easier to keep clean and the majority of people seem to prefer them. I had to get some tyres, have decided to try out Federal 595 RS-R. I've gone 285/30's on the rear, they are the widest I could fit.





I'm running the inlet manifold the opposite way with it facing backwards as it makes running the charge pipes much shorter and easier to route. The problem is, the throttle body is angled upwards as standard to clear the power steering pump. This was giving me a clearance problem with the engine cover, it drops down quite sharply so the roof can fit in. With the power i'm wanting, it makes sense to fit a larger throttle body. I initially bought a V8 RS6 one but it was just too big to fit so I've picked up a B5 RS4 one (I try and avoid RS4 bits as the RS tax on everything is mental money). I've mounted it upside down and it's still a pretty tight fit.


Adam L

I've used the RS-R's before, 265 wide however, with rear wheel drive and about 400bhp in a 1250kg car. They're not bad on the road but I found them pretty good on track once they were warmed up.
Escy

I've been making decent progress but not finishing things off to the point i'm ready to post up so it's been awhile since an update. Someone on another forum asked for an update so I thought i'd share here also.

The 997 wheels required spacers to get the fitment right (rears were hitting the coilovers and the fronts are set too far inside the arch). Spacers and wheel bolts tend to be a pain in the arse when fitting the wheels and I expect the wheels will probably be coming off quite regularly so I've gone for a stud and nut conversion



I mounted the the charge cooler in the boot and made up the boost pipes. They are 2.5" from the turbo into the core and 3" from there to the throttle body. It's a very short pipe run, especially compared to how the Audi S4 is. My charge cooler is quite big, I decided the best place to mount it was in the boot. I've had to cut a hole in the boot floor above the turbo for the boost pipe to come through and i'm using the original hole where the engine wiring loom came through for the other boost pipe. The 1st picture shows how it is as standard (the holes are from a tracker that was fitted), the second shows where i've opened up the small hole to join the larger one so the wiring loom can fit. The wiring loom is longer on the Audi engine so i've had to coil it up inside the boot, the hole section that's coiled up was originally a straight bit that was encased in a rubber that was poured over it as a liquid in a mould. This was a total nightmare to strip back, between myself and my brother who helped, there was probably about 10 hours that went into just doing that. The 3rd photo is the charge cooler fitted and the Audi ECU bolted in. It's a minor miracle that the 3" boost pipe from the charge cooler to the throttle body fits, especially with the wiring loom running next to it. There is hardly any space there, to get it in and out the engine needs to be lowered off it's mount. The one hole in the boot floor and the opening up of the hole where the original wiring loom was are literally the only cutting of the bodyshell i've had to do and both are minor. I'm pretty proud of that considering the scale of the modifications i'm doing.  




Escy

The power steering pump on Boxster has the reservoir built in so i've had to add one. A mate was scrapping a Discovery so I took the reservoir off that. You can see how much space I have down the sides of the engine, I bet that makes a few of you Audi guys jealous...



Because the turbo is mounted low i'm going to use an oil scavenge pump. Made up a bracket and welded it onto a trans mount.



I was advised that the pre-turbo exhaust i'd made being 3" diameter was a mistake, slower spool up with no benefit anywhere else. I decided to re-do that section in 2.5". I also added in the external wastegate, using a Turbosmart Hypergate 45.

The turbo has a 4" diameter compressor inlet so I made up a 4" AFM housing and got a K&N filter for it. It's not clear in the pictures but it sits the other side of the chassis leg, behind the rear arch liner which happens to have some vents in it. I'll probably add a heat shield at a later date.


Escy

I got Pirtek to make me the high pressure power steering line, re-using the original Porsche and Audi ends. That's the power steering finished and another job ticked off the list, not many things left to do now before i'm ready to drop the engine back out and start stripping it down.

I also test fitted the fuel rail, It's a stroke of luck how the fuel lines nicely curve around the oil cap, that's not something Audi designed as the manifold is facing the wrong way on my engine.



Noggymike

Awesome
bboy82

I am in absolute awe of this build!
Kent

its ace isnt it
Escy

Thanks guy's, i'm itching to get it finished. I can't wait to see what it's like.
cochyn

bboy82 wrote:
I am in absolute awe of this build!


Ditto: The man's got minerals!
coullstar

It will be mental.  I find mine a little of a handful, cant imagine what this will be like with the low down torque.
Escy

Cheers guys, i'm expecting it'll be pretty wild.

I made up the fuel lines with the proper fittings.



The turbine housing on the Holset is a twin scroll design, I can't make use of that on my build so i've knife edged the divider and smoothed the edges of the flange. I also welded the internal wastegate shut and hacked off the actuator mounting tabs as the way it's clocked they were in the way of my oil feed, 



Escy

I've finished the majority of the mocking up so i've pulled the engine back out ready to stripping it down



Cylinder heads removed



Here are the 2.7t (left) and 2.4 (right) cylinder heads, the 2.4's are like new compared to the 2.7's which is a result. The guy I bought the engine off (for peanuts) said it was low mileage and to be fair it does look it, no wear on the cams.



This pic shows how much larger the inlet ports are on the 2.4. The inlet cam also has a more aggressive profile than the 2.7. A good upgrade for a small outlay.



The 2.7 exhaust valves (left) have the collet slightly further down the stem than on the 2.4. I bought a set of spare valves from an Audi S4 so I didn't have to take the time to strip them out of my old heads. Glad I did as it's fiddly and i'm working on the floor, my knees are shot to bits now.



Fitting the valves and lapping them in.

Escy

Standard conrods seem to be borderline at the power level i'm wanting so while the heads are off anyway I thought it best to put a set of forged ones in.



Dropped the sump and made a mess



Fitted the rods



I got a TTV Racing lightweight flywheel that's designed to take an Audi RS4 B7 clutch. I decided on a standard clutch as it'll be less harsh on the gearbox which I worry could be the weak link, also the Mrs can drive it easily. Hopefully it's up to the job, if not, i'll put a paddle clutch in it.



Fitted it.

ScottR

Wait.... What???? "So the missus can drive it."

First mistake I've seen in the whole thread!
Escy

Ha ha, I doubt she'll want to drive it anyway.

Cylinder heads are back on, along with a new water pump, thermostat and cambelt kit. When the old belt was removed, the tensioner had seized and there was loads of slack, got lucky with that. The bar is to lock the cams when doing the cambelt.



There is an auxiliary water pump that's designed to run when the engine is switched off. The purpose is to stop water boiling in the turbos and help cool them. I've decided i'm not going to run water lines on my turbo and I'm not using the fan controller that runs this pump so i've removed it.





Gave the cam covers a lick of textured paint.



The power steering pumps on the Audi and Porsche engines are pretty much the same so i've swapped over the smaller diameter pulley from the Boxster engine  

Sm1408

Great build, I'm hooked.

Wish I had your patience and skill.
RS4Jules

Full respect mate, absolutely loving it  
coullstar

When your finished fancy doing one for my 996, it was lacking in power stakes at the weekend, lol.
Escy

coullstar wrote:
When your finished fancy doing one for my 996, it was lacking in power stakes at the weekend, lol.
With the failure rate on the 3.4's it'd probably be a viable. The engine is only about an inch taller than the Porsche one.
coullstar

Luckily I've a 3.6 with new IMS.
Escy

I knew it'd be needing a decent differential to help put the power down. Over the last few months i've had a stressful time trying to sort one out.

1st I stripped down my old diff. My hydraulic puller is my favourite toy.



The gearbox in my car is a 987 Boxster S 3.2, the 3.2 was made for a short period and there isn't much information about on it. A look on the Quaife website showed they listed the 986 S and 987 S (3.2 only) as the same part number. With that in mind, I started looking at the options for the 986 S. Ideally I wanted a plated diff. I saw on Facebook that EMC Motorsport had fitted a Kaaz LSD in a 986 S. Kaaz don't list it for that gearbox but it turned out it'll fit with some modification to the stub axles. I bought one.



The Kaaz didn't fit, it was completely different. EMC told me to bring them the box and they'd take a look. They did and it was totally different, Kaaz don't do one for my gearbox. Two days off work to take my box and collect it and a waste of both mine and EMC's time. It turns out Quaife have incorrectly listed the diffs on their website, not something i'd expect from a company like that. A call to my local Porsche parts dept. had them confirm the differential in my gearbox was the same part number as the one in a 3.4 Cayman S. There are LSD options for that.

A bit of googling found a company called Prestige Performance Centre GB that were doing a Wavetrac for £980, the next cheapest I had found was £1150. When I enquired about availability the return email was from Design 911 so the companies are linked. I ordered it and the next day I have a phone call from Design 911 telling me the price was wrong, it's £1300 so either I pay that or they'll cancel the order. Pretty poor form considering i'd enquired about it before hand and they didn't even bother to check the price. I personally think they should have honoured the price. I've bought something from them in the past that was in stock, it ended up coming from Germany, took about 3 weeks to arrive and they didn't let me know. Shit company, won't use them for anything in the future.

Then I found a company called Gripper, never heard of them before but I believe they are used in motorsport so thought i'd give them a go. They are a plated LSD like the Kaaz was and are set-up for my requirements. I ordered it from Corby Motorsport, told them I need an LSD for a Cayman S, it arrives and the box says "Cayman non S" on the label. A quick comparison, the height of the ring gear is wrong, the bolt holes are the wrong size and it'd need a huge shim on one of the bearings. They offered for me to send it back along with my original diff and they'll modify it. They seem nice enough but after my previous troubles i'm pissed off they've sent me a diff that's clearly going to be wrong. If they'd told me to send mine in 1st for comparison I would have. So that's getting sent back for a refund.



Someone reasonably local was selling a Cayman S gearbox that had a Quaife ATB fitted. The gearbox has 2nd gear synchro shot so it was a good price. I went and picked it up last night. At least I know for sure it'll fit my box and I won't waste any more time messing about with company's, the project is stalling over this. If I can fix the synchro i'll be able to keep the box as a spare (there is a reasonably high chance i'll be needing one at some point).

I'll be honest, a Quaife wasn't top of my list but it's better than an open diff, maintenance free unlike a plated diff and the car is mainly going to be used on the road so probably nicer to live with.

Escy

I picked up some bits I had powder coated. I've got some modified suspension subframes (for driveshaft clearance) that aren't in these pictures, otherwise, these bits are all that i've needed to fabricate or modify to get the engine in the car. Just bolt on parts and nothing on the chassis modified. I didn't dare imagine it'd be this easy when I thought the idea up. The LS V8 converted ones in the USA require a fair amount of chassis hacking.



Escy

The standard fuel rail has a load of stuff on it i'm not using



Took some of the un-needed mounting lugs off the manifold and removed the pipe by the the throttle body and tapped it for a thread so I can cap it off nicely.



Fitted some Bosch 750cc injectors



Looks a lot cleaner than before



Heat wrapped the exhaust



The air flow meter and N75 boost solenoid are relocated to the back of the gearbox by the turbo and the inlet manifold is swapped around so I had to get stuck into the wiring loom to move plugs about.



I'm using an AEM 5 bar map sensor instead of the standard one, this will require re-coding of the ECU.



The original EGT sensors are un-reliable and one of the biggest weak points of the standard engine so i've ditched them and i'll use this connected up to my Zeitronix data logger.

Escy

A few pictures of the whole lot, ready to back in.











BennyBoo

Last picture looks great
Can I ask though, Would it have been better to go over the driveshaft with the exhaust or not..? Or was it down to room..?
Escy

There wasn't the room to run it above. It isn't as close as the pictures make it look as the gearbox is quite low in the chassis so the driveshafts are angled upwards. Once the car is sitting on it's wheels I should have a couple of inches clearance which I think will be plenty. I might look to put a heat shield in there to protect the CV joint.
Graham

Great to see this really progressing, all looks very good.
bboy82

I'm loving the de-cluttered look!

I'm going to run a 2.8 fuel rail for that very reason.

Have you considered going down the TFSI coil route? Apologies if you've already said...

I reckon you should enter it into the concourse arena at the next Porsche show and watch people's faces drop, just for the crack of it!
Escy

If I have any reliability issues i'll look into the TFSI coils but no plans to change anything else at the moment. I've messed about with so many aspects of it (5 bar map sensor, 4" maf housing, ditching the lambda sensors, egt's, etc) i've got a job on just to get it running right so don't want to change anything else yet.

I didn't think about using the rail off a different engine. I binned loads of 2.4 parts when I stripped the cylinder heads off the old engine. I got rid of plenty of bits that might have been useful.
guymcc

You look at those last pictures and think...how the hell is that going to fit!! Haha..  Great progress!
Escy

This is how it's going to fit. Lift the car up and push it in.



Roughly in position



Lift it up with a couple of trolley jacks and a transmission jack. The engine support beam helps keep it stable and takes the weight when I need to move the jacks around. It's a pain in the arse, I wish my engine crane was long enough to reach over the boot.



She's in her new home.



This shows the driveshaft clearance to the exhaust, and that's without the weight of the car on the suspension. It's not that close.
ScottR

LookIng it. You're done such a good job it looks like it was always meant to be there.
adzn3k

That looks factory
Brad Roberts

Hi!

I really enjoyed reading through this thread. You are doing a great job on the conversion!

I have a few questions for you:

The engine mount is upside down in most of your pictures?



1. Was this done on purpose? For clearance?

I know these factory mounts very well.. and they fail ALL the time. This appears to be a newer 987.1 design (better, but still fail, just less) The mounts are designed with certain direction for load path.

2. Does your bottom alum plate (from the 986) fit with your piping/tubing? Or do you have another plan to tie all the rear suspension back together?

I wish I would have seen your thread sooner.. For Boxster/986/987 racing we like to use the OS Giken limited slip diff. It's a combo of torque biasing and clutch plate.
Escy

The mount was done like that for clearance reasons. I can't see it making a difference to how it functions but it's something I'll keep an eye on.

The aluminium plate fits fine, I made sure of that when I built the exhaust.

I was aware of the OS Giken but it was out of my budget.
Brad Roberts

Great!

Yes, your load path is the same as stock You nailed the engine fitment!

Not sure if you need any more room? but the 987 alum engine cover goes right on the 986 and is taller in the middle of the cover. It's also much lighter.

The trans you used happens to have different gear ratios compared to the CaymanS 6speed. I believe it's 3rd gear that is different. Huge difference between the 2-3 upshift.
Escy

I wish i'd known about the 987 engine cover before. Would have made things easier, getting the throttle body clear was a real challenge.
Brad Roberts

Yeah, sorry I'm late to the party  

but I'll be following much closer from here on out. I've been building and racing 986 Boxster's since 2004 and racing/building 987's since 2006.

I have all the factory parts software (PET) and the VW/Audi ETKA, plus 986/987/981 Factory manuals.

This year my focus has been on the new Porsche GT4Clubsport:



Escy

You don't happen to have pin-outs for the X3/1 and X59 plugs that are in the rear boot do you (they connect the engine harness to the chassis)?
Brad Roberts

I'll pull it up and post a high res picture! What year is the car again? 01?
Brad Roberts

Thought you *might want this one also.. as I'm going over the pages. This is the rear relay control panel with the big orange fuse on it.

Escy

Thanks, my car is a 2000 Boxster S
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