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jockthedog

S4 upgrade 2.1

Owned this car since new, 90k miles done and it's time for a serious workover.

Had a 'stage1' done a few years ago - remap to around 300bhp, miltek exhaust and stoptech front brakes.

Had new H+R ARBs fitted in January, before the last track day I took part in, and just had these fitted, in time for SIDC on Saturday...

before (front)....



after (front)....



rears...



and detail....adjustable ride-height and dampers...



I have them set to '4' right now (1 = hard, 9 = soft) and the car is already like a go-kart. Will set them to 1 or 2 at the trackday and maybe drop the car a little more. It's already sitting down nicely and the 18" wheels do seem to fit...





only 12 hours till I have to wake up and drive up to the track. Excited? hehehe just a little.
There are going to be 18-odd    lotuses (loti?) on the track along with a half dozen scoobs, and a bunch of other stuff, including the completely mad Vtec Mini. I should be able to keep ahead of the lotiii at least, I hope!
Vids will follow.
Aragorn

Did you consider replacing any of the 30 odd rubber bushes on the suspension that will undoubtedly be completely knackered?
jockthedog

Aragorn wrote:
Did you consider replacing any of the 30 odd rubber bushes on the suspension that will undoubtedly be completely knackered?

Aye don't worry, all this stuff gets a good shake-down on a regular basis.
Also replaced a couple of top suspension arms, in fact.
And the ARBs are just in a month ago.

The whole lot, engine and all, is coming out very soon anyway, and we'll do a full re-bush then.
Aragorn

Yeh, wasnt meant as a dig, just pointing it out really.

I see lots of people fitting thousands of pounds worth of suspension/wheels to their cars along with huge power upgrades, and they're still driving around on 12year old bushes that are hanging.
jockthedog

Thought I'd post some pics of the new shocks in action.

This was at setting 4. Setting 1 would probably result in the wing mirrors falling off and my spine crumbling.

(this first one is my pal driving - I like to share the fun!)





think_or_thwim

Great shots mate, motor looking ace as well.
jockthedog

Ok this may be a mad idea, but has anyone looked at using their airco to cool their turbos?

It'd be power gain vs power drain as I see it.
So, how much power to cool 1 degree per cubic whatsit per second vs the airco drain.

So what's the drain of running an airco at max, say?




You can all stop laughing now.
S4Player

I'm doing a similar thing with my supercharged b7 mate using a killer chiller hooked upto the aircon to supercool the charge fluid and drop the iat's
odhinnhrafn

There was a thread on AZ a while back about a meth spray system that actually could be programmed to only spray when under heady boost, and for a short time afterwards.  If you do a search for intercooler, meth, you should be able to find it.
jockthedog

Bugger. So I'm not the only mad one then?

Would love to hear what equations you might have to hand, superchgd, that would tell me if it would give me more power or less.

odhin-
Isn't the methanol for fuel-mix rather than cooling? Hmmm....
odhinnhrafn

Yes, and no...  The thing with the meth-spray on the IC's is that it would coat the fins, and meth evaporates faster than water, so it will draw the heat out of the fins, like water, but then evaporate and pull the heat away.  IIRC, it dropped the IAT's 10-15C.  Don't quote me, though.
S4Player

Theory is it drops the temps and helps me maintain a stronger boost my iat's were getting super high above 7k rpm! The dyno at Mrc broke before they had a chance to rest it! We'll know more once i head back down! It's defo working tho my car feels way stronger than before
jockthedog

superchargedrs4 wrote:
It's defo working tho my car feels way stronger than before


That's the sort of equation I like!
S4Player

Lol it works mate and it looks superb behind my grill
jockthedog

I got around to changing the seats today, and more on that in a mo, but I'd better quickly catch up with everything that's happened since I last wrote here, which is a LOT! (Some of this may have appeared elsewhere, in part)

Back at the end of February, I'd ordered a big pile of stuff from APR and ECS tuning in the states.
ECS went fine - I ordered from them directly and soon received a nice stage3 clutch with lightened flywheel, 3" downpipes, some gaskets and suchlike...





However the order for APR for turbos, DVs etc never went thru.

I called the guy in Kirkaldy who was the APR  distributor to hear that the taxman had frozen his account, with my cash still in it.

Slightly unhappy about that, I had to wait and wait for something to happen with this. There is absolutely no way to check up on tax-related matters since HMRC will simply not talk to you about someone else.

VERY very long and convoluted story short, turns out the git had pocketed my cash and had been evicted from his premises for non-payment of rent. Him and his whole family are a bunch of bankrupts who seem to make a living ripping off whomever they can. Fortunately I have plenty of patience and he is now signed up to paying me back 250 quid monthly, while the taxman will probably make him bankrupt. Shame.

Sooooo, having been very let down by that tw*t, and blaming APR a fair bit too for having him listed as their man in scotland (they didn't even have a current address for him!) I convinced APR to give me the kit for cost price.

Eventually it was all ready to send to me and after another little fight with APR, who's prices had by then increased to more than the ORIGINAL original invoice, let alone what they'd later quoted me, I eventually got them to send me the kit.

In the meantime, I had fitted some RS4 OEM brakes and disks to the car to replace the stock rears and Stoptech ST40s in front. Of course that meant getting hoses, heatshields (like hen's teeth!), handbrake cable and 18" wheels too.
In fact I already had some 18" A6 reps and I recently got a set of TDs as a second set but they are very heavy, so I'm on the lookout for something under 8kgs per wheel.
I do have photos of the brakes but they are pretty crap to look at. Lets just say that I'm already planning even bigger brakes, possibly some AP CP5555s - 6 pots and very light.

At last, back in August I think it was, I had a big delivery from APR....




KO4s








There were plenty other things in the boxes, like the fuel pump, injectors, MAF etc and I counted all the bits before packing it up to take to my mechanic thru in Motherwell. The same Bedrock Veedubs that gingertoss (what happened to Grant?) and Milkybarkid Lewis go to.

A week or so later and the car looked like this...



with the engine also in bits....



Imagine my when I heard from John at Bedrock Veedubs that my downpipes had shrunk! WTF??! Yup, those 3" DPs were actually 2.25"....



Those were the ones sent from ECS, who admitted that it was wrongly advertised on their site 'but would still be ok'.

Whaaaaaat??!! 'ok'??!! wtf guys, they are about half the capacity of the 3" pipes, what is 'ok' about that?
Their 'expert' (mr billy boat himself) suggested that they would be fine as they ended up going thru a combiner to a single pipe anyway.

Ummmm, not on my car they don't. They go to the dual Milltek cat-back system I had installed years ago!

So I got them to take them back (despite it being 7 months since I'd ordered them, I'll say that for them) and found a set of 3" Loba DPs instead.

Those took a few weeks to get here and in the meantime I found a set of SMICs from Evolution Racewerks in the US (you'd think I'd have learned!).
Those arrived on time were remarkably NOT the correct setup, being for a LHD car. But the mechanic worked his magic (his big hammer!) and got them to fit. They are GOOD!





CF shrouds too!



The next little hiccup came when the engine was going back in and John called to say that the MAF housing was wrong.
That came from APR so a few phone calls and emails later and we discovered that ALL the APR kits were going out with a MAF for a volvo!
I still have that if anyone wants it.
Of course, it takes a couple of weeks for anything to get thru customs etc, but the replacement eventually arrived at last my car was 'ready'.
.
.
.
.
Apart from the kit to fix the new bipipe to the throttle body, DVs etc.....where were those parts?

Arrgh. Back on the phone to APR - 'ho hum, dunno what might have happened to that kit. We'll send you another.'
They must really hate me by now I do them!

So another couple of weeks passed before we got all the lose ends tied up, crimped and heatshielded and I at last picked the car up, only 8 months after I'd placed the first order.

Of course the car wasn't ready for me to give it the beans quite yet - I had a frustrating week between picking it up and getting down to MRC for the all-important remap, trying not to bring up the boost.
A bit like having a wild animal in a box, but you're not even allowed to lift the lid to have a look.

But it did sound sweet. Or maybe ANGRY. Whichever, it suited me just fine!

Eventually got down to MRC in November and got this result after a LONG day. Left the house at 2.30am and got back about 10pm.



Ye flippin ha! What a beast it is now!

I took it out on track the following weekend and was very impressed with the power, but as I've said before, I now need even bigger brakes!
I can now keep up with some much lighter scoobs and evos which use dto cane me on the straights.
And of course, with 475ps, there's not much room for more without an engine rebuild, so it's time to lighten the car, which will be started with my story from today....
Bops4

Got some nice parts there, don`t know if I would of had that much patience with wrong parts being delivered. Would love them dp`s and coolers on mine, time to enjoy it now its got cold out
Trig

Erm, remind me to remove my savings from the bank you appear to rob frequently!
jockthedog

So at last I am ready to start lightening the car.

It's a big step, really, starting to remove all the unnecessary stuff which makes the car look great, but which slows it down.
It's had 11 years of being a 'nice' car and it's now time to be a track whore

First thing to come out are the seats, and here's how I did it....

Back seat, before...



Not much used, really! Which I could tell from the lack of ANY pennies when I removed it

Just lift up the front edge and out it pops....



Next comes the rear seat backs. There's a torx bolt which holds down a clip, between the seat backs. Folding down the backs reveals it...



and it is easy enough to wiggle free once the bolt is out....



Next come the seat backs, which you need to lift free of the center bracket ...



and then slide towards the center of the car to pull them off the pegs on either wing...gone!



Next, remove the center bracket itself, or you'll end up hurting yourself on it!...



And also remove the seatbelt fastenings which are bolted to the seat area. I replaced the bolts in the holes to keep out the weather.

I weighed the stuff I took out of the car and there was 22kg of it! Not a bad start

Now onto the front seats. There is a 'special' (not very!) airbag adaptor which you are meant to use, to ground the ignition wire in the seat-side airbag but I took some advice and just made sure I had the battery (-ve) terminal disconnected for a few minutes
(at the same time noticing some water pooling in the scuttle and poking the crap thru the grommets under the battery and the brake resevoir to clear that, you'll be glad to hear!)

and once I'd freed the harness under each seat, I quickly wrapped the terminals on the seat base with tape to help avoid accidental shocks and ignition.

I also wrapped the loose ends of the power supply (red) and airbag wires (yellow) which come out of the floor under each seat...



The seats may have a bolt at the front end but mine had these little spring clip things, which were easy enough to push out....



I should have mentioned that I had made sure each seat was as high up as it went on the motors before I disconnected the battery. The manual says to fold them up too, but that would have been a bad idea, since it is easier to get them out of the car when they are still at 'right angles' if you know what I mean.

Having removed that spring clip at the front, there are two screws to remove at the rear of each seat, strangely one is Philips and the other is simple crosshead. The latter is hidden beneath a wee plastic button on top of the center-side rail plastic end cap...

This is the passenger side one...



and the Philips screw is on the rail itself, just inside it's own endcap...



Those endcaps then pull free and you're ready to hoick the seat out. I say 'hoick' for want of a better word.
It's not that difficult tho - you need to lift the handle under the seat to free the front of it and let it slide back on the runners until the ends pop out behind. I had to lever the carpet out of the way to get the outside slider out.
You can lift the front of the seat simply by pulling back on the headrest, as you crouch outside the car and work thru the rear door, and get the whole chair to slide back out of the runners.
Once they are both free, I found it simplest to tip the chair backwards onto the (missing!) back seat and then turn the seat on it's side so that it exits the rear door. Helped by havinig the seat in the upright position, as I said.

Before....



One done!



Now the driver's side, tipped into back seat...



And I'm done!



Just needed to belay the dangling harness bits to the new seat bases and voila! A quick vacuum on the back seat and we're ready to try it out.



Each of those original seats was about 31kg and the replacements were only 17kg, so with the back seats included, I just removed 50kg net from the car Not bad for a morning's work

Now just I need to finegal the new driver seat so that it fits me better - it's a little close to the pedals for my liking - maybe a little welding will be required, but I'm happy, REALLY happy that this is starting to take shape as a track car and I've now waved goodbye to ever having backseat passengers (or drivers!) again.


Hope that was instructive to someone else, and that I find a good (read 'rich') home for the lovely seating I just removed!

Oh yeah, and I'll need to delete the airbags in vagcom to get rid of the airbag warning light that is now on
LeeT

Looking good. I reckon you'll get a good £7>800 for those seats you removed too. Im gutted i just bought some black rs4 leather else i would have made you an offer on them
StumpyRS4

Nice write up.  Dont be a pussy get the rest out man !!

How serious are you going with it for track use?
jockthedog

Trig wrote:
Erm, remind me to remove my savings from the bank you appear to rob frequently!


No need, Trig, I already did that for you
jockthedog

StumpyRS4 wrote:
Nice write up.  Dont be a pussy get the rest out man !!

How serious are you going with it for track use?


Oh aye, it's all coming out. Next will be the Bose counterweights

It'll end up with a rollcage, maybe even this year if I can sort out the brakes before the end of summer.
To tell you the truth, it should have been there already, but what with that bad order and the expensive joys of owning a GTR too, I might have to find some more of Trig's savings first!

I dunno if it's really a time-attack car tho. I'm thinking of racing it, if I can find a series that'll have me and my AWD. That's more like the kinda buzz I'm after.
ScottR

Would you not save a shed load of weight by removing the carpet?

Think I've got some resistors for the airbag connectors somewhere. I'll take a look over xmas.
MathiasS

You got LO530's ?

Nice mods you did so far !! Good luck with the car !
StumpyRS4

jockthedog wrote:
StumpyRS4 wrote:
Nice write up.  Dont be a pussy get the rest out man !!

How serious are you going with it for track use?


Oh aye, it's all coming out. Next will be the Bose counterweights

It'll end up with a rollcage, maybe even this year if I can sort out the brakes before the end of summer.
To tell you the truth, it should have been there already, but what with that bad order and the expensive joys of owning a GTR too, I might have to find some more of Trig's savings first!

I dunno if it's really a time-attack car tho. I'm thinking of racing it, if I can find a series that'll have me and my AWD. That's more like the kinda buzz I'm after.


Know what you mean.  Tin Tops, or a simple Sprint Series maybe?  Done your ARDS?

What cage you getting?  PM if easier...
jockthedog

I could have done the ARDS thing earlier this month but I was away on the date, and I may as well wait until the car is ready. They do the tests at Knockhill often enough.

As for which cage, it'll be welded and it'll be race-spec (ie thru the dash rather than round it), but otherwise I haven't done much digging on it yet.
There's certainly not many s4's with that sort of kit to cannibalise for my own nefarious ends.
Maybe go the Morgan way and use laminated wood

What do you have in your gorgeous track monster?
jockthedog

ScottR wrote:
Would you not save a shed load of weight by removing the carpet?

Think I've got some resistors for the airbag connectors somewhere. I'll take a look over xmas.


Cool, cheers! What Ohmage am I after? We probably have some at work.

I can save another 30kgs straight away by taking my golf clubs out the boot
StumpyRS4

As far as I can find, there's only one cage pre-made for the A4/S4, and that's from Custom Cage (Cage Ref CL 4).  Costs c£500 from memory.  A PITA to fit according to MRC/Danny.

I've had a quote of £900 to supply and fit it.  That will be through/behind the dash, so that needs to come out and windows too.  

I need an extra harness bar adding too.

The guy makes custom multipoint cages, and quoted £1700 fitted for that.






Seats are carbon/kevalr and weigh only 4kgs each

Thinking of extending the gear stick so it sits closer to the steering wheel.  The opposite of everyone else on here - a Long Shift  
jimbo

good work jock , looks like the rot has set in. join the club    
jockthedog

StumpyRS4 wrote:

Seats are carbon/kevalr and weigh only 4kgs each

Thinking of extending the gear stick so it sits closer to the steering wheel.  The opposite of everyone else on here - a Long Shift  


Nice seats!, but do I take it that your avatar does not accurately depict your car right now? awww, I'm so disappointed!   I've been wondering for ages where you got that body kit.

That 'long shift' just brings me an image of changing the points in a railway signal box, or changing gears on a big ship, know what I mean?...

'Prepare for 3rd gear Mr Stumpy....Engage!',
'Engaging 3rd gear sir...3rd gear now engaged',
'You may continue to accelerate Mr Stumpy',
'Sir!'

StumpyRS4

Brilliant!... To be honest I wouldn't bother with it.  OEM is fine.  

The Avatar is next year's Audi DTM entry (S5).
StumpyRS4




I was thinking of something along these lines:


jockthedog

Yeah I can't decide on paintwork at all. I started another thread on that subject in fact. Some big silver rings up the side might look good against my pearly black.

I wonder if there's room for a set of clubs in the back of a stripped-out S5.
lucky

Interesting story

You will go to the track with Pss9?

They are good for their hard work on the track?
jockthedog

Aye Lucky, the bilsteins are great on the track and on the road too.
I've just added an inch to the height of the car and softened the dampers, for help getting around in the snow (what snow?!, It's 10+ degrees outside!), but normally at the track it sits low and the dampers are set to 'not soft'. I'd like it if they were more adaptable but all the real data I've seen is that they are either 'on' or 'off' so PSS2 might have been more accurate

But a HUGE improvement over the oem shocks.
lucky

Hi,
This on-off control I noticed  in pss9 on my old S2000

You still have a lot of understeer with them?

I see working very well in your photos s4,would be nice to see a video
jockthedog

Understeer is just going too fast for the amount of grip, and there are ways around that
Any car will understeer, but at different speeds due to weight and whether they are driving the front wheels.
By adding braking AS you make a turn (a big no no normally), you can add weight and therefore grip to the front end. You can get the car to oversteer in this way, pirouetting around the front wheels.
Getting to the point, I reckon it's easier to put more pressure on the front end when that front end is pushing back harder - ie with the harder setting and so overcome understeer.

Plenty of vids here....from the car itself, not of it, unfortunately. And no spins

http://www.youtube.com/user/jOckthed0g

Trig

jockthedog wrote:
Trig wrote:
Erm, remind me to remove my savings from the bank you appear to rob frequently!


No need, Trig, I already did that for you



DOH!!!!!
lucky

jockthedog wrote:
Understeer is just going too fast for the amount of grip, and there are ways around that
Any car will understeer, but at different speeds due to weight and whether they are driving the front wheels.
By adding braking AS you make a turn (a big no no normally), you can add weight and therefore grip to the front end. You can get the car to oversteer in this way, pirouetting around the front wheels.
Getting to the point, I reckon it's easier to put more pressure on the front end when that front end is pushing back harder - ie with the harder setting and so overcome understeer.

Plenty of vids here....from the car itself, not of it, unfortunately. And no spins

http://www.youtube.com/user/jOckthed0g

It seems very neutral
Rick

Mine is tail happy on track, absolutely no understeer, that's on road tyres and full slicks!

Rick
lucky

Rick wrote:
Mine is tail happy on track, absolutely no understeer, that's on road tyres and full slicks!

Rick


You run with bilstein pss9?
marc1

Rick wrote:
Mine is tail happy on track, absolutely no understeer, that's on road tyres and full slicks!

Rick


More info Rick
Rick

No, it's on Eibach pro streets, which are way to soft for track.  Front and rear H&R roll bars.

Rick
jockthedog

door cards came out today. It's certainly starting to sound like a track car.



Now I can see some heavy-looking window mechanisms to remove, and of course there's the windows themselves.

I'm thinking a rivet gun will come in handy for some replacement door cards, or at least one for the driver door. Not quite sure what to use for the blanks tho. Thin fibreboard maybe?
But what about the windows? Are there regulations for the materials, that sorta thing? I want to keep the car on the road, so need to keep it legal, and if I'm ever going to race it....

I'm assuming it'll be much easier to simply replace the existing windows with race-spec perspex or whatever it's called, and have them fixed in place, but if I can keep the drivers-side auto window, glass and all for a little comfort.... or is that a crap idea? Maybe get an old-style hand winder from an old a4?

All opinions/advice welcome.
sprintevo

window frames

the frames and glass are surprisingly light compared to other cars so not worth butchering at this stage, even then I would keep them and at the later stages drill out holes in the frames and ream the edges to lose some weight, you may be able to get a poly window kit to replace the glass, there is a firm in Warrington that makes them for most models, remember that you will be putting it all back in when you eventually add the roll cage,

for the best and easiest weight loss - Lose the carpet, all the sound deadening pads, front seats, belts and tensioners and as much of the metal braketry that holds all those items in, move the battery to the rear footwell opposite the drivers side.  Next consider if you want the climate control as this carries a lot of weight and additional complex water hoses, then consider if you want ABS as you don't want this cutting in on track, and you can lose loads of weight in the engine bay junking the control block and everything with it. Airbags and all the sensors are next on the list.

It all adds up and makes a big difference and is the best thing to do if you want a committed car for the track or light competition.  I remember the Audi touring cars thrashing the rest of the field in the BTCC in the 90's and that was with a 2.0 NA engine

I did this with my Integrale EVO and went back to bare metal and lost  huge amount of weight, it makes a huge difference and an already fast car really fast.  The only downside is the noise rattling around the empty cabin on route to the tracks - I ended up fitting miltary spec lightweight quilted sound deadening padding which looks pretty cool

StumpyRS4

I swapped all mine out, as glass is soooooooooo heavy!

I have sliders at the front.  I'm adding an air scoop and hose to one of the rear ones, to direct air forwards

1) to aid windscreen de-misting in the winter and
2) to cool me down in the summer.



You can buy the window 'kit' from Plastics4Performance.


EDIT
Re the door cards - they create the seal so without them, will let in rainwater/air.  Not alot but something to be aware of.

I was gonna make some out of carbon sheet, but I haven't yet as it doesn't really bother me.
StumpyRS4

Get a lightweight battery.  The OEM one weighs like 15kgs.  The one I bought weighs 7kgs.  I haven't bothered re-locating it as it doesn't weigh enough to make much of a difference.

Take the aircon and heating matrix etc out.  Again you'll be surprised how much it weighs.  Just think about de-misting the windscreen in the winter!

Forget about sound-deadening - just wear earphones and listen to some tunes...
jockthedog

Re: window frames

sprintevo wrote:
The only downside is the noise rattling around the empty cabin on route to the tracks - I ended up fitting miltary spec lightweight quilted sound deadening padding which looks pretty cool



Thats great, just need a few throw-cushions and an incense burner

Great advice, thanks for taking the time.

jockthedog

Good point about the weather seals.

I think what I'll do for now is to strip the speakers out of the cards and remove the motors on all but the driver's window, and prop the other 3 windows shut somehow, so that I can put the door cards in again.

I don't fancy water in the cab, at least till I rip out the carpets.
And the taxman just ate my polycarb windows for now at least
StumpyRS4

Any progress Jock?
jockthedog

Some progress today in fact,

I'd reinstalled the door cards to save everything getting wet, and they weigh next to nothing anyway, esp with the carbon trim removed.
Today I got the car into the garage to work in semi warmth at least and stripped out the rear doors completely, leaving only a dod of wood to prop the windows open and then replaced the door cards again.
The manual says it's a two man job to get the door component carriers reinstalled and realigned with the doors and pillars but I found it pretty simple really, no doubt aided by the already-creased rubbers round the seals.

Here's all the crap that came out of one door, after removing a few rivets...



And here's the trusty dod of wood that's keeping the window shut - there are actually two bits - one presses the window against the seal and the big bit glued onto the side impact bar is holding it up...





Both rear windows are the same, but only time will tell if that wooden fix is solid enough.
I'll do the passenger side soon, but I'm leaving the driver side for now.
jockthedog

Some more progress.

Took the insides out of the front passenger door last weekend and propped the window up with a couple more blocks of wood. Handily there were a couple of holes in the window-motor brackets left when I'd drilled out the rivets, to which I screwed the wooden blocks.

Then today, while I was waiting for a new shed
to arrive, after the last one kinda blew away in Hurricane Fannybaws...



I decided to remove the last two speakers from the back shelf, along with the rear seatbelts. Once I had removed the side bolsters and the rear shelf, I could get the seatbelt guides off (no point in trying to do that with the shelf installed, there's an impossible-to-reach catch) and then the right side seatbelt came out pretty easily.

However, the left hand seatbelt retaining bolt is hidden away behind the side trim in the boot, so I decided just to rip the whole lot out while I was at it....



Quite a pile of stuff, including the CD changer, tool box bracket, etc!

The final tweek was to connect a 3 ohm resistor across the terminals of the igniter wires for the rear seatbelt pre-tensioner pyrotechnics, to stop the AirBag light coming on (shows as 'open circuit' in vagcom).....



Quick DTC check/erase in vagcom and all was well. Very strangely at this point, I noticed that the squishy boot-unlock buttons above the rear number plate stopped working, but they worked fine again 5 mins later. Perhaps cos I had the boot open for so long?

I now have everything done that I planned to by now, but have to wait till March 17 for the first trackday I can get to. Looking forward to that!
I compared the acceleration graphs for this car vs my GTR, up the straight at knockhill and sure enough the S4 was already as fast in a straight line (slight power-to-weight advantage), so I expect I'll be able to out-accelerate it now that I've lightened the car so much. I reckon 60 kgs so far, but I have to guess until I can be bothered to pick all the window winders and suchlike up and stand on the scales again.
BennyBoo

As to weight saving, you're doing a pretty good job already!..

But, I had a spare boot at home, given by a friend, to practice painting on, but i decided to go further..

I have cut out all of the non essential things, but still enables me to put the stiff black cloth trim and lock mechanism..

It weighs ALOT less than a standard one..


Still needs a little smoothing and cleaning up..

jockthedog

Took the center console out last weekend - no photos right now but suffice it to say that the car looks like it's been stolen, stripped and abandoned!
I've left the air controls but the radio is gone, along with gearstick cover, etc. Even took out the drivers knee plate bit, for added gnarliness.

I also got the angle-grinder out and chopped up an old server door from work (server = big wardrobe full of computers), to make a protective cover for the wiring and electronics which lived under the rear seat. The door was steel mesh, but not too heavy and just right to bolt into a few existing holes and with another trusty wee dod of wood to hold it up in the center, means I can stack stuff on top of there no worries.... like....

I found a set of Superleggeras on ebay at last and those arrived last week - one had a small crack but being steel they are easy to weld and I had them made shiny black at the same time, to match the car. Only 8kg per alloy. Should be a decent weight saving once you multiply it up - maybe up to 72kg equivalent of sprung weight.
They look fabby (photos to follow), but I'll need to get spacers as they are ET45. What size of spacers I will know once I get these fitted....



which just arrived today

I have been after these CP5555s for ages, but sure enough a set turned up on ebay last night and I immediately snagged them. They are much lighter than just about anything else you can get for the S4, without getting silly.
I'm not going to fit them right away - I have a set of RS4 discs to get thru first, which shouldn't take long with the super-hard Carbotech pads I have to fit next week.

I'm not using the standard AP Racing RS4 setup with the 362x36mm disc, but rather a 356x32mm disc (which happily came with the calipers, along with braided hoses and pads ). That should mean I can fit these calipers under ANY of my sets of 18" wheels, which is necessary, really.
I'll also need to get a set of brackets made, and some new bells for these discs, as these ones have pcd 4xsomething.
Apparently BG Developments handle this kinda thing for APRacing.

In fact, if I get the brackets made first of all to fit over the RS4 discs that I have to use up, then I could fit the 5555s over them - the rs4 discs are the correct width but a few mm larger diameter, and then I should be able to later take the same brackets and shave off a couple of mm to fit over the ap racing 356mm discs at a later date, with a bell to suit the same offset as the rs4 discs. Did that make sense?
I'm keen to get these on the car asap of course, but it'll be at least a month I reckon. I'm sure I can get brackets made more locally than Bromsgrove.

The wife's birthday will have to hurry itself along on Saturday, as I'm dying to set up a mockup of these on the car

I'll get some photos of those wheels tomorrow. They are lurvely in black.
jockthedog

BennyBoo wrote:

But, I had a spare boot at home, given by a friend, to practice painting on, but i decided to go further..

I have cut out all of the non essential things, but still enables me to put the stiff black cloth trim and lock mechanism..

It weighs ALOT less than a standard one..


hehe, bored on a sunday, were you?

I have a feeling that I will be wanting a big fat wing on the back of my car eventually, and I don't think that the boot would take it if I went crazy ape bonkers with the angle-grinder like that.
thebig25

StumpyRS4 wrote:






Stumpy that looks the business!
Aragorn

Mmmmm track car yummyness.

Nice one on the boot lid, yoiking that idea for my PPC999 car!

Planned to do exactly the same with the electric windows too, infact when i stripped the loom down i removed all the electric window wiring bar the drivers door. Was thinking about ordering a manual winder from the dealer, but for the cost its not really worth saving the few kilos of motor, i'd be better spending the money making it go faster instead!

Not sure if i'll use your timber method, or swap the rear motors out for the manual winders from my engine donor though!

I too refitted the door cards, after finding pools of water in the footwells. As you say, its just a bit of pressed cardboard that really doesnt weigh much once the speakers/switches/trim etc are removed from it!
jockthedog

As promised, here's a couple of pics of one of the wheels...crap tyres I know, but they came with the wheels and there's plenty of tread to leave smeared on the track





And here is the back seat/server door thing I made:



StumpyRS4

Chicken wire?
jockthedog

Chicken wire wouldn't be strong enough to support the spare wheels etc that I'll be carrying to the track, back there. It's about 1mm thick steel mesh and strong enough for me to sit on.

I had the carbotech XP12 brake pads fitted today and lowered the car again, ready for the track in a week and a bit.
Holy ship's anchor, Batman! These are immense, even without bedding them in. Once that is done, I'll be able to stop in a car-length from 60mph, I reckon (well ok, maybe not but it's THAT good!)



Looking forward to Duffus Dip at 75mph!

And BTW, for anyone contemplating Knockhill this year - they are preparing the track to be driven in reverse!
God knows what speed we'll be able to do DOWN the straight instead of up it. Just the small matter of the hairpin at the end
StumpyRS4

XP12 - will eat your discs I;d imagine, but will work damn well.  Keep an eye on your rims too from all the extra dust.

Good luck next week!!
jockthedog

Yup I'm bargaining on the discs wearing fast, but doing a proper job on the way. Got an extra set to use up front before I can fit the AP calipers.

I'll post my usual pile of vids after the trackday. Hopefully more multi-cam action this time. Last time I got a great view of sky and car roofs from the rearview.

Makes a f'ing change from golf every weekend, that's for sure!
Aragorn

Might have to get myself along to a trackscotland day, i just get The Fear about bending the daily, or wrecking my nice new tyres.
gingertoss

Knockhill backwards should be interesting, will need to get the brakes sorted for that
jockthedog

Did some work on the car today, thanks to selling my interior to someone who wanted the door cards along with the seats.

So I called the nearest scrappy, all of 1/2 mile from my house and he had a 2000 A4 in the yard, door cards intact! So I grabbed the cards out of it and swapped them into mine and mine are now ready to ship. The 'new' ones have black trim - perfect for oily fingers

My car looks so sorry for itself, having lost the gorgeous interior, but I feel I have to stick with this now I've started it.
I've had the car a lot longer than either of my dogs and even my (current) wife! and it's a wrench to strip it down it like this.
Next time I'll do this to a car I have no great attachment to.
jockthedog

Cursed spring clips!

I hate these things, They just get in the way.

I'm trying to dismantle my old transmission and I've drained it and removed the diff at the rear end, but now I need to pull that end off to get at the guts of the gearbox.
Back to the start of this episode tho - the perfect start to a stag night really - a beer and a tranny.



Freeing off all the wee bolts and had to remove a couple of the big detente springs to get them all. I was surprised how easily these bolts all freed themselves. I only had a wee ratchet to fit the torx45 socket. That one does almost all the bolts on the tranny.



Then a few good bashes with a mallet to remove the back end of the box, and find that it wasn't quite as drained of oil as I'd though....



Fortunately had a bucket under there and the old carpet tile was perfect for guiding the oil into it. Got about a litre out of it, once I'd tipped it up a bit.

This is the back end of the torsen diff, and the spacers, dished washer and spring





The diff just slides out, after a wee shoogle...



Lovely piece of engineering...



Of course there is always something I don't have a tool for and despite JUST being able the spread the spring clip on the output shaft with a set of snipe nose pliers, I can't get any purchase to pull the clip off the shaft.



I'm sure people come across this all the time so if you have a tip, even if it's just 'go beg/borrow/steal a spring clip removal tool' I'd appreciate it.

While I'm at it, I also need to get the shifter rod out of the front end of the box - there's a funny shaped, possible worm screw at one end (I've removed the cover on with the reverse-gear-switch)....



I'd expected that to be an allen screw, but it looks more like a D shape internally. Is that just a bit of swarf or is it meant to be like that? And is that what I need to unscrew to get the selector rod out?

I'm hoping that getting that out will allow the front end of the box to slide off, although there's probably yet another spring clip in there!
jockthedog

Ok, so I figured this out - I need to get the end cover off before I can get at that circlip. Which entails pulling out the oil catcher, and then undoing a 3square bolt which holds the bearing in on the end of the input shaft. I have the 3square key on order.
The little retaining plate needs to come out too, and the wee magnets behind it need cleaning off.

Also, to undo that bolt (it's 150Nm tight!) I need to lock the gears by selecting a fwd and a rvrs gear together, which means I need to get the gear selector rod out. That was easy in fact - I just needed to remove the detentes completely in the pic above and it pulled right out.

But the latest news is that I now have the car back from repair etc, with a new gearbox and a complete bumper again. And a little colour change.....

As a reminder, here's the car after the crash...



and here it is affter the repair...



and here it is now....



Unsurprisingly I am pretty chuffed with this!
LeeT

jockthedog wrote:
Ok, so I figured this out - I need to get the end cover off before I can get at that circlip. Which entails pulling out the oil catcher, and then undoing a 3square bolt which holds the bearing in on the end of the input shaft. I have the 3square key on order.
The little retaining plate needs to come out too, and the wee magnets behind it need cleaning off.

Also, to undo that bolt (it's 150Nm tight!) I need to lock the gears by selecting a fwd and a rvrs gear together, which means I need to get the gear selector rod out. That was easy in fact - I just needed to remove the detentes completely in the pic above and it pulled right out.

But the latest news is that I now have the car back from repair etc, with a new gearbox and a complete bumper again. And a little colour change.....

As a reminder, here's the car after the crash...



and here it is affter the repair...



and here it is now....



Unsurprisingly I am pretty chuffed with this!


Looks great but why didnt you source a facelift front wing? At least change the rubbing strip  
jockthedog

I do have the wee chunk of rubbing strip on the remains of the old wing - I haven't even noticed till I looked at the pic that it was different.
I don't think it'll make much diff to the speed of the car
LeeT

jockthedog wrote:
I do have the wee chunk of rubbing strip on the remains of the old wing - I haven't even noticed till I looked at the pic that it was different.
I don't think it'll make much diff to the speed of the car


Haha, it stood out to me and you'll notice the side repeater is a different size too. Dont think you're that bothered though  
colinurquhart

Doug, the car looks stunning now, looks very 90's touring car, any idea of the final weight loss of the car and what it weighs in at now? When did you crash it? Also who does your mechanical work for you? When I bought my B6 S4 I thought I was being sensible going for the more daily use friendly car but now wish I went for the B5 and went down the same route as you. Hopefully see you soon up at Knockhill.
pjbRs

Man you had some bad luck with your build, love the old school paint job and decals. More pics please bud.
jockthedog

colinurquhart wrote:
Doug, the car looks stunning now, looks very 90's touring car, any idea of the final weight loss of the car and what it weighs in at now? When did you crash it? Also who does your mechanical work for you? When I bought my B6 S4 I thought I was being sensible going for the more daily use friendly car but now wish I went for the B5 and went down the same route as you. Hopefully see you soon up at Knockhill.


Thanks guys, I keep looking out my window to check I'm not dreaming and I think my neighbour has left his wife and kiddie, just to lie down in the gravel near the car.
No idea of current weight, and the roll cage I have lingering in my garage will add several KGs back in. I reckon I've lost about 100kg off the standard, so maybe 1500-odd now? I've been meaning to get on a weighbridge. The weight loss is still very noticable in the corners. The car was extremely well balanced before I stupidly launched it into a grassy knoll at the bottom of Duffus (that was back in March). That was all down to too much speed.

The guys at Autohaus in Bilston do all the heavy work for me, short of engine-out stuff at least. You can see their sticker on the car. They now have a 4wheel alignment machine and have branched out into doing tyres too, so it's a one-stop-shop, and only 5 mins from my work. The ProTint unit is smack next door to them. Both gave me a good price break, for carrying their logos.

I'll be at KH next Saturday evening 6-8 if you fancy a ride?
You definitely didn't want to do this the way I have! It's cost me an arm and 3 legs to get the car to this point. It would have been MUCH cheaper to simply buy an RS4, with all the knobs already turned up to 11, from one of the forum members, but this was mine from new and I always said I'd do this to it.  It's been a labour of love, for sure.

Tomorrow I may at last be able to fit the OZ wheels I got. Just a shame that the tyres they are carrying are complete crap (Runways). Need to scrub those down to being semi-slicks as fast as possible! Why would you buy super-light alloys and then put crap rubber on them? l'll never understand that.
ScottR

Looking good. What are you stripping the tranny down for?
jockthedog

ScottR wrote:
Looking good. What are you stripping the tranny down for?


Just to see how it works
I may get the repair kit - it has the 1st/2nd gear shifter ring problem.
Rick

Nice graphics
colinurquhart

Cheers Doug I'll pop along for a ride and I'll bring the camera  too and get some shots of your car.
Bops4

That looks awesome doug. hope my old front end fares better than the last one lol
jockthedog

Lots more to post.



I pulled out the carpet at last, last week, and then discovered that I could hardly reach the pedals, with several inches of foam missing from under my heels. So I cut a piece off the carpet and put it back it - just enough to keep my heels supported. I'll need to make something a little more permanent I think! I didn't bother about removing the central console, I just cut the carpet away from behind it

Here's the car with no carpet... 13kgs of carpet in total! Does anyone know if those wires running across the passenger footwell are just audio wiring? I'd like to get them out of the way.



I had the car on the track again in it's new livery on Saturday and it went like it is meant to. Fast!

This evening I at last got around to trimming the wobble-bolts I needed to get to fit the new wheels. I could only get wobble bolts 5 mm too long, so I had fun with the angle-grinder arf arf.

Here they are, and I am very happy with the result. These were advertised as 8x18, 5x112 but when I got around to trying them on a few weeks ago it turned out that they were 5x110 and when I stacked them up they were 2" taller than a stack of 8x18s, so they must be 8.5x18! It was way too late to return them, and I like them too much anyway.

Was worried that they might rub, or have a little too much poke, but here they are.... no poke at all and no rubbing on either full locks....







I'll certainly be able to see the AP Racing calipers I have waiting in the garage I do need to get these crappy tyres off tho - who would put 25quid tyres on 350quid alloys?? Answer - the guy who didn't even know what size they were when he sold them to me! Am thinking of either full slicks, or more R888s.

Now back to the tranny...
jockthedog

Sooooo, I left the tranny, needing to get that 150Nm bolt off, after I'd removed the oil catcher.

Sounds simple but without the special VAG frame to bolt it to, the box was simply rotating, heavy as it is, when I tried to put some weight into undoing that bolt.

Solution was simple I used one of the long bolts I took out (which hold the plate, which hold the magnets in place under the end bearing) to bolt the whole thing to a stud in my garage wall



That allowed me to get the leverage I needed to get that bolt out (I had to order an M12 triple-square key for that one)...Access is thru the hole left by the oil catcher.



That done, to get the rear end of the box off, I still need a bearing puller, but I decided to start at the other end instead. It pulled apart quite easily, after a few good whacks with a mallet...



The shaft connecting the front diff to the rear diff pulled out very easily, and a bunch of tapered bearings fell out of a space behind it...





apparently there should be 23 of those, but I only found 21, so I think a couple may have fallen into the front end of the box - I'll need to unbolt that from the wall and give it a good shake!

Here's a nice pic of the 1st/2nd shifter which will need fixing if I'm going to put this box back together....



I've been bashing away at the read end of the box, trying to free that bearing and it's getting loose now, so hopefully I can live without the internal bearing puller.
Next job is to borrow a gear puller and start taking the shafts apart. yeeha!
colinurquhart

Sounds like you've got your hands full there doug. Best get in gear and get a move on, boom boom.
jockthedog

you got those photos from Saturday up yet, Colin?
colinurquhart

I'll get it done today doug, what section do you want them in?
jockthedog

stick em in the events thread matey. Looking fwd to seeing some more pic - only two other snappers at that last one.
Cheers!
jimbo

the 1/2 shifter is at the other end of that shaft doug so you will need to get everything out of that casting first.
StumpyRS4

Most places will only allow slicks if you have a cage fitted...
cantbassed

what an amazing thread! looks great!!!
jockthedog

jimbo wrote:
the 1/2 shifter is at the other end of that shaft doug so you will need to get everything out of that casting first.


Damn, ok, thanks Jim, well I guess I'll just keep hitting it with the mallet till it falls off The Engineer's Solution

I could probably prise it off now, but I don't want to mark the joints or it'll never hold oil again.
jockthedog

StumpyRS4 wrote:
Most places will only allow slicks if you have a cage fitted...


Didn't know that, but no worries.....It's coming!
jockthedog

Took some time yesterday to create a footplate for the drivers side, which just had a bit of the original carpet and was not ideal - my heel was catching on it when I used the clutch.

I built it on top of the bit of carpet, which provides the necessary padding underneath to keep it flat and at the right height. Just needed the odd wee dod of wood to support it in the corners.

I'm chuffed with this, it looks and feels the bees knees...

jockthedog

Guess what arrived today...



Castor here I come!
StumpyRS4

Be interested to hear how you get on.
I'm getting mine corner weighted next week after the subframe mounts go on.
jockthedog

Aye I'll be sure to let you know.
And i'm interested in what you've managed in the weight dept. Something to aim for w mine.
jockthedog

Bloody hell, I feel like I've gone bare knuckle boxing with some scaffolding over the last couple of nights.

Been making the most of two dry evenings in a row to get the rear cage installed, and feck me that was a real pain to do without a spare set of hands. nobody was around so I had to wrestle the 20kg+ of steel into position one inch at a time.

Thanks to some VERY careful planning, the last bolt slid home a couple of beers, errr hours ago and it couldn't have fitted better. The thing is extremely rigid so once three corners were bolted-in, you couldn't move the fourth without a jack.
And like I said, it fit perfectly.
Not like me - normally I'd still be out there, sweating buckets, swearing my head off, with larger and larger hammers being swung at the thing, to MAKE it fit
Actually my neighbour would've helped if I'd asked - he's gagging for a ride in it, as is his 2yo boy - but I didn't expect it to be quite the wrestle it was.

Here wot I did...

First a few test fittings last week, trying to figure out how it was going to fit best. It had been in someone else's car before mine, but it was an A4 so it was going to be close to a drop-in.



The horizontal bar attached with jubilee clips is to take the harnesses I have lying in my kitchen right now
.
Note the inevitable dods of wood on the floor - more on them in a minute.

You can see where the upright has been cut and the solid steel billet welded-in to join the two halves. The photo shows the two halves separated.
The joint is flush when they're together and there's a bolt to make sure it's not going to pop off. It takes a mallet to shift the joint, so that may be overkill

The four corners each came with a steel plate to bolt-on on the exterior of the car, which the feet of the cage then bolt onto, sandwiching the car panel.

I didn't want to bolt in the cage without using some sort of bushing to spread the weight on the uneven internal panel, so I got some 15mm-thick rubber off fleabay (some heavy pipe gasket material, nice and solid).

But until that arrived yesterday, I had to make do with those dods of wood - same thickness you see

Having very carefully measured, measured again and then again, I drilled the holes for the plate-retaining bolts, and the main bolts thru the floor.
Easy enough using the plate itself as a template.

This is the passenger side plate bolted on the inside of the floor as a test fitting, behind the front seat. You can see how it fits with the main bolts in the center going through the double thickness seam in the floor.
Dunno if it was designed to do that (I think it was in an old 80 before the a4) but it was perfect.



Then it was easy enough to bolt that on the underside of the car, using the 4 corner bolts. In fact the double thickness bodywork threaded itself nicely on the M10 main bolts so I didn't even need to stick a nut on those...

This is the driver side ...



and from underneath - it fits between the strengthening seams in the floor. Just loosely bolted in right now and still needing washers on the big bolts......



This all got slavered with underseal once the feet were fitted.

Then that rubber arrived yesterday and I cut and drilled the bushes to fit, and the lower part of the cage dropped in nicely....





Then I started on attaching the rear mounts which bolt onto the fronts of the rear wheel arches.

Those had simpler plates which have no other retaining bolts, so should have been easier to get in, but with one arm up inside the wheel well, inside the liner, and the other trying to push on the bushing etc, I ended up with shredded fingers, hands, arms, the lot.

A whole hour just to get the driver's side attached!

This is the top bolt. There's one underneath too.



I have a bruise like a battered wife on my left arm and I managed to crush my thumb in between the two halves of the cage, but hey, I must  be some kind of masocist cos I went back tonight and did the other side.

Easy Peasy I thought, since the last two holes all lined up nicely and there was a perfect gap for the bushing.
Ha! No such luck.

I've found over the years that no matter how simple the job, there will always be one screw, one nut, one clip which does not want to shift.

Sure enough, removing the screws which hold the rear wheelwell liner in place, two of them decided to just rotate. Not coming out, just flipping rotating. Whatever was on the other side had broken loose but was still attached to the damn screws. Not one but two of those in the same stupid liner.
Once I'd wangled them out with much swearing and gnashing of mole grips, the job was fine until I went to screw IN one of the other screws and THAT one decided to go in three turns and then do the same thing.
3 stupid PITA snags in one little job.
argh.
Sent to test us.
Stay calm.
argh.

But job's done now and it is SOLID. Like I say you couldn't budge the last corner even before it was bolted in.
Let's just hope that I don't get overconfident with this above my head. Will feel much better taking my daughter's boyfriend out to scare the crap out of him

Next thing is some decent track tyres for the new wheels. Ordered some Avon ZZRs today - those look really sticky. Those 8 tyres I'm selling today might pay for ONE of those.  

Those new top mounts should go in on Friday/Monday, which means I'll have to stop chasing my wife round the house with them, trying to show her how clever they are hehehhe she keeps running away, shouting 'safe' words.
Rick

Nicely done
StumpyRS4

You'll be amazed at the difference in cornering now.

Might not have picked up on it from looking at your photos on my phone, but Is the cage not fixed at the a pillar, b or c pillars? You might experience the car flexing at the top with some noise as a result, as its only connected at the base.
jockthedog

I just bolted dozens of extra kilos into the back, so cornering will have changed I'm sure!

It's only attached to the floor and the rear wings. I'll let you know when my rear window pops out on the way to work tomorrow

I can use some of that square steel to brace the sides at the top if that proves a problem.
jockthedog

StumpyRS4 wrote:
Be interested to hear how you get on.
I'm getting mine corner weighted next week after the subframe mounts go on.


did you get weighed yet?
StumpyRS4

Car being dropped off on Saturday so will know next week.

My cage is a full cage not just rear, and weighed I think 60kgs when it went in.
jockthedog

Ok, big update of my gearbox stripdown.

I did find the other two tapered roller bearings in a little pool of oil in the front end bell.

The problem I had was of removing the inner half-bearing from the rear end of the input shaft, where I'd just unbolted that 150Nm bolt.
Grief!
I tried whacking the shaft thru with a drift but I didn't want to damage anything to I desisted.
I looked and looked online and eventually got a set of inner bearing pullers but of course none of them fitted inside that bell (I have a set of innner bearing pullers for sale now ), so I took the box down to Edinburgh Audi, sure that they would have the special tool.

Nope!

They have none of that kinda thing and send any gearboxes off to a certain Kane's Gearbox Specialists in Falkirk.
I happened to be heading to Glasgow anyway so on the way back I stopped in to this TINY gearbox place. A little cave, full of bits of gearboxes. I mean FULL He obviously knew his stuff!

The guy there was very helpful but again, he didn't have the puller that fitted inside the bell, so he went back to what I had been trying - hit it hard with a drift to try to get the shaft out of the bearing!

Between him, myself and his assistant, we eventually managed to wrestle the damn bearing out. I slipped him a twenty and on the way out he showed me this ENORMOUS set of pullers. Apparently I would need such....

So I got the box home again and tidied a space on a workbench where I could start to strip down the box.

First thing was to pull of the 5th speed sliding gear with spring together with 1st inner race for ball bearing for input shaft - the other half of the nightmare bearing mentioned above....





I was using half of the smaller bearing splitter plate from the set I'd borrowed, as a plate to push against.



and it came off smooth enough...here you can see the inner race at the end of the shaft...



Then I locked the gears by engaging two of them together...



and then I could remove the circlip from the hollow shaft ...



and then pull off the 5th gear...





and the shim behind it.... which was meant to be just over 1mm but in fact was 2.2mm - go figure!



The next bit sounded easy but turned out to be a right bugger.

First I marked the synchro ring and the sliding gear which are closely matched....





I needed to remove the selector fork for the 5/6 gears and there is a Spirol pin in there which needs pushed out. Sounds simple but I couldn't find or make a tool which would do the job, so after a day or two I improvised.
I had some tiny nuts which were smaller than the pin, so I pressed one after another in on top of the pin, with a round spanner underneath to make room for the pin to come thru, and used a mole grip to do the pressing....space is very tight, so that was the only thing I found that fitted and more to the point, worked...



A tiny piece of bluetack holding the wee nuts in place...



Eventually I swapped the nuts for some small and then longer bolts, and added a large nut at the bottom...



until at LAST the damn thing dropped out....



It's a bad idea to drive the pin out with a drift, cos it will damage the selector rod bearing. There is yet another special VAG tool for this, but this method actually worked quite nicely.

Having done this, the 5/6 sliding gear comes off easily along with the selector fork.

Now for the next job - pull off the entire 6th gear, synchro etc from the rear end of the box. There is virtually no clearance under or around it to get a bearing splitter into, and the large borrowed puller set I have does not have hooked legs, while the smaller one does have legs but is far too small for the job, which is a right cnut to tell you the truth.

That was why the guy at Kane's showed me his giant puller and said I'd be back

Sod it, I'm not giving up that easily.
So I found a cheap, GIANT puller online...



I have a pal at work who used ot work on bus gearboxes and he'd not seen one this size!
Of course being HUGE it is certainly solid enough for pulling, but those feet are far too big to get under the 6th gear, so it was time for another makeshift tool....

Some jubilee clips and those smaller puller legs meant I could make something that might just work....





I wasn't taking any chances with this, as it had to be super-strong!

It did work too, and I managed to get the gear pulled about 1/4 inch before the poor wee legs got a bit mashed by the gear teeth and started to slip, so I'll need to come back to this one with another plan.
But in the meantime, I tried to shift the other half of the 6th gear. That is described in the manual as needing pushed off the hollow shaft, but MAY COME OFF EASILY.
So I gave it a bit of a lever and sure enough off it popped, easy peasy...





And that's as far as I've got. I just need to pull the 6th gear off completely and I should be able to pull everything out of the casing, including the 1st/2nd gear synchro which needs replaced.

I should mention that I picked up the parts from Edinburgh Audi on Tuesday and Peter there gave me a good discount, once he knew I was on this forum and once he'd seen my car I thought having 3 cars was plenty, but apparently he has eleven!

I'll post the rest of this stripdown once I've got it licked. Hopefully this will put anyone else off from doing it themselves! I have a feeling I should've left it at Kane's!
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