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 c5 rs6 The money pit !! View next topic
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kwalker705
Learning


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 04 Jun 2015
Posts: 66

Location: scotland

PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 6:21 pm  Reply with quoteBack to top

[quote="IanH755:687634"]The Wagner shrouds need a bit of work to get them to fit as they're not a direct swap.

Yet another RS6 speciality with Plug and Play parts that don't! [/quote]

The smallest oil cooler on the front (not sure on what its cooling quite yet) has had its hard lines replaced with braided lines so I'd a feeling I'd need to do a little trimming of the shrouds

Good to get a heads up though.  Will just take my time.  If i remember ill take pics of the parts I alter for other members reference.
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kwalker705
Learning


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 04 Jun 2015
Posts: 66

Location: scotland

PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 2:56 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

finally some pics



while doing the gear oil swap


bit of vagcom action


new pioneer double DIN fitted


Wagners





Also of late been having a new "issue"   when the car is cold sometimes the gear selector shows like this on the dash ??   Anyone experienced this before ??  If i stop the car and restart it it goes away.  Or if i leave it and just drive it eventually reverts to how youd expect it to be.

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C J
Experienced


Car: RS4 B5
Power: 507
Torque: 741
Engine code: AZR

Joined: 16 Apr 2013
Posts: 3627

Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 4:46 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

You need to read the box with vagcom and hope it's the F125 selector switch!!

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RnsE,Milltek,MRC Filter,034 SAI delete,034 hoses,Wagner coolers,Podi gauge,034 TFSI coil conversion,034 snub,034 rear ARB+brackets,B7 brakes,Tanoga SS,Nialls catless 3' dp's,413 pump,630's,DO water meth,MRC stage 3 with LC and FS.
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Noggymike
Veteran


Car: 2002 B5 RS4
Power: 430 bhp
Torque: Whatever
Engine code: BHP

Joined: 07 Oct 2012
Posts: 12190

Location: In front of you, lol'ing

PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:27 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

C J wrote:
You need to read the box with vagcom and hope it's the F125 selector switch!!



Had this on my 6 and was as CJ says

Few hundred quid and it was sorted

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IanH755
knowledgeable


Car: C6 RS6 Avant
Power: 907hp
Torque: 830ft/lbs

Joined: 01 Jan 2014
Posts: 361

Location: Nr Maidstone, Kent

PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 8:48 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

It's a massive PITA to change the F125 as it's next to a gearbox mount.

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kwalker705
Learning


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 04 Jun 2015
Posts: 66

Location: scotland

PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 9:19 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Cheers guys. Will get it checked in a few weeks when I'm back from work.  Will post the findings.
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bigben143
The Turbo Unit


Car: audi rs6 c5
Power: ???
Torque: ???

Joined: 31 Dec 2010
Posts: 2781

Location: tamworth/birmingham

PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 7:13 am Reply with quoteBack to top

Nice to see another rs6 owner.

I'm a little confused when you say you can't use hubcentric spacers??? As your theory makes no sense
As for the engine n box coolers they are very efficient for the size. Don't be fooled with bigger is better as they say in the jap seen  
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kwalker705
Learning


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 04 Jun 2015
Posts: 66

Location: scotland

PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 12:35 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

bigben143 wrote:
Nice to see another rs6 owner.

I'm a little confused when you say you can't use hubcentric spacers??? As your theory makes no sense
As for the engine n box coolers they are very efficient for the size. Don't be fooled with bigger is better as they say in the jap seen



I could use them. But due to the hubs own "centric" part that sticks out into the alloy up to about 10mm (cant rememeber exact measurements now)you can use slip ons but you reduce that protrusion of the hub into the wheel by whatever thickness of slip on spacers you use.  Then after that its onto hubcentrics but they need to start at about 15mm to ensure there is enough meat around the middle to recreate the hubs protrusion properly.  

I didnt have enough clearance in the arches to run that sized spacer anyway..    the brace bar on the caliper was the biggest issue and I didnt know it could be removed. So maybe I need to get hold of another wheel again and try fitting it without the brace bar.  either that or just get other wheels that tickle my fancy.
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bigben143
The Turbo Unit


Car: audi rs6 c5
Power: ???
Torque: ???

Joined: 31 Dec 2010
Posts: 2781

Location: tamworth/birmingham

PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 1:08 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

H&r do hubcentric spacers at 10ml so no need for the cheap spacers brought from Halfords. So no issues then
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sammyb
Knows a Bit


Car: stinky old datsun
Power: lots

Joined: 07 Oct 2014
Posts: 214


PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2015 10:13 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

H&r most certainly do 10mm spacers.....I've ordered some 👍🏻
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kwalker705
Learning


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 04 Jun 2015
Posts: 66

Location: scotland

PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 3:48 am Reply with quoteBack to top

some more progress on the car.

decided as the car was nearing 120k miles that I'd tackle the timing belt. not one to shy away from big jobs I thought "oh this will be a good learning experience" Well I wasn't wrong !!!

set aside a good few days for doing the work. All the parts came from TPS. (decided to do water pump, belts, pulleys, tensioners, crank seal rocker cover gaskets and spark plugs while the car was in pieces) My wagner intercoolers had also been delivered previously.

my timing locking tools arrived and all new fluids as well for performing the task.

spent day one removing the bumper, front end and slowly working my way through everything until I got myself to this


Only real issues to this point was the lower M6x65 allen bolt on the inlet pipe into the throttle body was rounded so I drilled the head off of the bolt. Thankfully once the inlet pipe was removed it was simple to grab the bolt shaft with molegrips and back it out easily. another casualty was the small bore vent pipe from the top rad pipe back to the expansion bottle. It was brittle and subsiquently snapped when i touched it. So a replacement was ordered

Problems continued on the sunday with the strip down of the belts and pulleys . I discovered an already rounded allen bolt on the passenger side timing belt roller. left it and moved onto the water pump and then found 3 already snapped studs on the waterpump. so a butcher had been into this before hand !!!

Thankfully with the trusty mig welder and some patience i managed to tack nuts onto the broken studs and remove 2 of the 3 studs embedded in the block. I then followed the same procedure on the rounded roller bolt to remove it.

got everything engine wise back together nicely (small smearing of instant gasket sealant on the area of the water pump seal around the snapped stud I couldn't get out) although i'm sure the flange will have sealed fine with the 8 remaining bolts spreading pressure evenly.

changed the plugs with no problems but could not for the life of me get the driver side cam cover off to change the seal so left it as undisturbed as possible. It seemed to be getting caught between the EGRvalve ? behind the head and the belt cover on the front of the head.

rebuilt the front end , started it up and lo and behold a missfire !!!! was ready to torch the car at this point as itd been in bits for a week waiting for TPS for some extra parts and with other things getting in the way.

anyway phoned a mate who came with VagCOM. missfire on cyl 1. changed the plug and coil around and still no joy. did a little more digging and could hear a slight hiss from around the injector on cylinder 1. To add insult to injury at this point the bonnet gas strut decided it had enough and failed to hold the bonnet open any longer. Gave up and got drunk after finding this out !!

next day I installed the VAG specific timber 2x4 to hold the bonnet up while i did more damage under the bonnet. pulled the fuel rail and the lower injector o-ring on injector 1 was missing. I had loosened and pulled the rail upwards slightly in order to try and give the cam covers more room for changing the gasket on them. must have broken the o-ring then. The problem also being I couldn't find the missing o-ring anywhere around the inlet manifold.

So the rest of the day was spent removing the inlet manfold. Not something I want to do again in a hurry as i snapped the vac feed to the FPR on the rear and also snapped one of the NRV's on the breather system. I did however find the 0-ring. or C-ring as it should maybe have been called then . it had made a new home inside the inlet manfold. thankfully the thin layer of oil from the breathers seemed to have stuck it to the inlet manifolds body rather than it finding its way into a runner and then into the valves/cylinder etc.



Took the inlet to a mate who tig welded up M8 bolt hole on the middle of the top of the inlet where the airbox bolts to. It was re drilled and tapped . The reason for this is the bolt was a very loose fit and i think partially threaded so thought it best to redo all this with the inlet off. Also drilled out the snapped vac feed on the back of the inlet and flared and made up a new one to press into place. gave the inlet a damn good wash otu with a degreaser to flush out the oil film, and the newly created swarf from the re-threading .


I also found out that to put the front end into "service" position you dont need fancy bolts. Just the long bolts which go up through the bumpercrash bar. They provide splendid front end hangers




So a new NRV , a shed load of new stainless jubilee clips, some new inlet manifold gaskets and a new injector o-ring and a whole new day later and I had the inlet manifold back on.

coupled with some new GFB recirc valves, and the wagners this time (fitted them while waiting for the inlet gaskets and NRV

SUCCESS



To finish off the audi headlight bracket repair kit also arrived and my dancing main beam lights are now cured. Have 3 brackets and screws remaining should anyone want to purchase the spares I now have as id purchased a set for each side. but in the end only needed one as the lower mounts were in need of repair rather than the uppers. they were repaired with the help of some 12mm alu rod , an M6 machine screw and some tiger seal. can grab pics if anyone needs to carry out a similar repair.

test drive was good and murphy approved greatly from the passenger seat !! shame his test drive involved a trip to the vet to have a thermometer inserted where the sun dont shine !!

'

So thats pretty much how my last 2 weeks have been spent. oh yeah managed to fit my leon cupra-R splitter to the front bumper and also change out the bonnet strut for a new one.

lessons learned were - TPS like taking my money. I like Jap cars even more. there is no such thing as "this RS6 repair job will only take a day".
a 2x4 probably stopped me from going insane !!! as it was the only thing I knew I could rely on not to snap under the audi bonnet.
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FalleN
knowledgeable


Car: Cactus S4 B5 saloon
Power: stock
Torque: stock
Engine code: AGB

Joined: 06 Feb 2014
Posts: 507

Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 8:21 am Reply with quoteBack to top

Good work, shame to find the mess other people have left behind on their previous job.

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IanH755
knowledgeable


Car: C6 RS6 Avant
Power: 907hp
Torque: 830ft/lbs

Joined: 01 Jan 2014
Posts: 361

Location: Nr Maidstone, Kent

PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 1:29 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Or as I like to refer to them as "Bodging B@stards"!

My bonnet strut was weak so when it was windy it would fail completely slamming the bonnet shut, which is just what you want to find out when your heads deep under the bonnet!

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kwalker705
Learning


Car: C5 RS6

Joined: 04 Jun 2015
Posts: 66

Location: scotland

PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 5:23 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

IanH755 wrote:
Or as I like to refer to them as "Bodging B@stards"!

My bonnet strut was weak so when it was windy it would fail completely slamming the bonnet shut, which is just what you want to find out when your heads deep under the bonnet!


I was petrified it'd shut with a tool sitting higher than the wings consequently wrecking the bonnet. hence the use of the 2x4.   Thankfully my local autos pares suppier was able to source a brand new strut cheaper than TPS and a week faster.
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Noggymike
Veteran


Car: 2002 B5 RS4
Power: 430 bhp
Torque: Whatever
Engine code: BHP

Joined: 07 Oct 2012
Posts: 12190

Location: In front of you, lol'ing

PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:20 pm Reply with quoteBack to top

Glad you got it sorted in the end

Good old man stubbornness kicks in and we can do anything!

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